My Life in Wine Episode 17

In Episode 16, the Wine Spectator packed up and moved to San Francisco, amid an atmosphere of tension  and uncertainty.  The newspaper was expanding and the growth meant new publishing equipment and the need for more contributing writers. As the editor, it was an unsettling time for me, and I had to decide whether to stay or go. 

Opera Plaza, San Francisco

It was 1983 and Wine Spectator owner and publisher Marvin Shanken was visiting the San Francisco offices, in Opera Plaza, and at a meeting we agreed that it was time for me to move on.  I had been with the Spectator for three years and I wasn't happy with the direction the publication was going and Marvin wasn't happy with my objections. 

Janet and I were renting a split-level house on a canyon in the Belmont hills then, so I set up an office in a downstairs room and began the long re-booting of my dormant free lance wine writing career. 

By the early 1980s, the U.S. wine scene had matured beyond the so-called wine boom of the 1970s. But the growth meant more competition among those wanting to write about wine. The field was wide open and editors at all levels knew very little about wine, so all one needed to do to be a wine writer is to convince an editor that you were a wine writer. 

Fortunately the work situation for me wasn't hopeless.  The publisher of a small wine magazine, then called Wine & Spirits Buying Guide, (W&SBG later became known as Wine and Spirits magazine) called and offered me a job as editor.  

The offer was tempting since things were slow at the time. But there was a catch; in fact, there were two catches: The magazine's offices were in the East Bay, a long daily commute from Belmont; W&SBG was owned by an affable Aussie who owned a similar magazine in Australia but who didn't quite grasp the ins-and-outs of the U.S. wine industry, the personality of the California wine community and U.S. business law and taxes.

Sometimes you feel in your gut that despite obvious concerns, you should take the plunge, so I signed on as editor of W&SBG for 12 months.  Mostly it was a good experience, the grinding commute aside.  The magazine grew in content and circulation, but there were financing problems I wasn't told about and I was itching to return to freelancing. 

The short version of a long complicated problem is bills weren't being paid, so the owner sold W&SBG and returned to Australia where he put all his energies into the magazine he had mostly neglected while trying make W&SBG work. Today, Winestate is a success in Australia and New Zealand and Wine & Spirits has carved out a niche in the U.S. wine publishing market.  

Diane Teitelbaum, 1946 -  2014

Not long after I was back at my desk in Belmont sending out queries to editors, I got a call from Diane Teitelbaum, a friend in Dallas, who also happened to be good friends with Michael Bauer, then food editor at the San Francisco Chronicle. 

"I'm having lunch with Michael Bauer before going back to Dallas and I told him about you," Diane said.  "He would like to meet you.  Can you join us for lunch?"

In the next episode, Teitelbaum, Bauer and Boyd put their heads together to discuss the future of wine writing at the Chronicle, over pastrami on rye sandwiches at Max's Opera Cafe, near the San Francisco airport. 

 

Next blog: Napa, then and now Part 1 

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

Cabernet Franc

'Where Bordeaux wines are concerned, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have a tendency to steal all the limelight.  However, both history and literature agree that the delightful Cabernet Franc deserves a prize for best supporting role."  Pierre Galet, French viticulture lecturer and author.  

 

A blend of grapes consists of a star variety and a handful of complimentary grapes in supporting roles.  The classic Bordeaux blend has Cabernet Sauvignon in the leading role, with four other grapes for nuance and complexity. 

Think of the blend in cooking terms: Cabernet Sauvignon is the main ingredient in the dish and the other grapes are the seasonings.

By law, the standard Bordeaux blend consists of these five varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In practice, Bordeaux vintners prefer only the first three.

Volumes have been written about Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but not so much about Cabernet Franc. What follows, then, is a primer on Cab Franc, as it's commonly known: what the grape is all about and the characteristics of the wine itself.

 

Here are ten things about Cabernet Franc that you may not know:

* Cabernet Franc is one of the world's 20 most planted wine grapes.

* Cabernet Franc, along with Sauvignon Blanc, is a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. 

* Cabernet Franc is called Bouchet in St. Emilion, where the variety makes up about 40% of the total, behind Merlot.  In most vintages, Ch. Cheval Blanc, a top St. Emilion, is 51% Cabernet Franc.

* Cabernet Franc is becoming the dominant variety in the southwest regions of Languedoc and Quercy.

* Cabernet Franc accounts for 30% of the plantings in Pomerol, a neighbor to St. Emilion.  Ch. Petrus is a noted Pomerol with a high percentage of Cabernet Franc.

* Cabernet Franc constitutes about 10% of total plantings In the Medoc, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king.  

* Cabernet Franc is always blended with other varieties in Bordeaux, but stands on its own as a popular varietal in Saumur-Champigny, Chinon, Bourgueil and Anjou Villages, at the expense of Rose d'Anjou.

* Cabernet Franc is growing in popularity in Washington state where it is more frost tolerant than Merlot. 

* Cabernet Franc, in the northern Italy region of Friuli, is sometimes identified as Cabernet, while Cabernet Sauvignon is sometimes labeled simply as Sauvignon.

* Cabernet Franc is known around France by many different names, including Gros Cabernet, Bouchet, Breton, Bidure and at least six other names. 

 

 In the vineyard, Cab Franc buds and matures earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its favored position in the cooler vineyards of St. Emilion and Pomerol.  But an early maturing makes Cab Franc more susceptible to coulure, or poor fruit set. Since the vine can not fully ripen all grapes if all flowers remain on the cluster, it naturally sheds flowers during fruit set.  Excessive coulure means a low yield. 

Cabernet Franc is lighter in color and tannin than Cabernet Sauvignon, allowing its juicy raspberry flavors to add another dimension to a blend.  When pushed in the vineyard to high yields, Cab Franc has a tendency to be herbal.   

There is a juiciness to Cab Franc that you don't find in Cab Sauv.  Sauvignon is more lean, angular with harder tannins in younger wines.  Franc can be deceptive, because the tannin structure is there, but the fruit is brighter and more forward. 

Cabernet Franc is grown in many parts of the world, sometimes as a varietal, other times as a component of a blend.  If you can't find any of the following wines in your local wine shop, ask for them.

Saint-Emilion: Le Dome, Ch. Cheval Blanc, Clos St.-Julien, Chapelle d'Ausone.

California: Pride Mountain, Lang & Reed, Steven Kent. Ridge Vineyards, Lieu Dit, Chappellet, Relic.

Washington: Owen Roe, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Andrew Rich

It's easy to get in a rut with wine; you know what you like and that's what you drink.  Next time you reach for a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, pause for a moment, then make it a bottle of Cabernet Franc.  You won't be disappointed.

Next blog: My Life in Wine Episode 17

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

Shampanskoye

"And we meet, with champagne and a chicken, at last."  Lady Montagu, The Lover

 

Summer may seen like an odd time to write about Champagne, but if you enjoy a chilled glass of white wine on a hot summer day, then why not make that a glass of Champagne?

The question is, of course, rhetorical, because it doesn't have to be summer; any day is a good day for Champagne.  

Champagne, cool and sparkling in the glass, as a summer refresher (with or without a chicken), occurred to me one especially hot day during the recent heat wave that struck the Pacific Northwest with a ferocity not seen around here for decades. 

"Soviet, er, I mean, Russian shampanskoye is the best!"

A dry dusty feeling in my throat nagged me as I read a wine news item about Russia pulling a fast one on French Champagne producers.  It seems that Russian President Vladimir Putin, a guy who enjoys poking people in the eye, signed a new law that "shampanskoye," the direct translation of Champagne, will now be reserved only for bubbly made in Russia.  

The Latin lettering of Champagne may still appear on the front label, but the back label must say "sparkling wine."

And there's the rub, at least as far as the French Champagne Comite is concerned. For years, Champagne makers have been saying that Champagne is THE "sparkling wine," so why repeat it. 

In situations like this, I'm remembering something comedian Joan Rivers was noted for asking: "Can we talk?"

It's not so much that the French are touchy about protecting a specific wine name; they are, after all, concerned about the use of an important wine name, while waging a battle for decades with folks trying to sell their own bubbly by using the name Champagne.  After all, Napa winemakers would get testy if a cheeky European vintner decided to label their Cabernet Sauvignon "Napa Valley.

Anyway, it's not likely that you'll find a bottle of shampanskoye at your favorite wine shop, so let's talk Champagne. 

Located a short distance from Paris. Champagne is a region with a lot of history. But the region, laboring under the law that defines what is Champagne, Significantly, has run out of land suitable for vineyards within the present appellation.

There has been talk for years about the effects of climate change on the vineyards of Champagne, but for now, only three grapes are authorized: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.  Each of the varieties account for about one-third of the total plantings, with the edge to Pinot Noir, at approximately 38% of the total. Tiny amounts of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris still hold favor with one or two houses.

Depending on  the Champagne house, the standard blend is 60/40 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although some houses add a little Meunier.  Following a standard first fermentation, the new wine is put into a bottle where it will remain through the crucial second fermentation, then given a dosage (sugar addition) and finally  the package is finished with a mushroom cork and foil hood. 

There are six basic styles of Champagne, many of which can be found in wine shops.  Most are made in the brut style, or 0 to 1.5% residual sweetness.

 

Non-Vintage -- The most widely available style and generally the least expensive.  NV is a blend of years based on the current harvest and is considered classic Champagne. 

Vintage -- Must be 100% from the year shown on the label.  Generally, a vintage wine is from a good year. Blend of grapes is similar to Non-Vintage.

Blanc de Blancs -- A "white of whites" wine made entirely from Chardonnay, that is considered to be one of the best Champagnes for aging.

Blanc de Noirs -- A white wine produced from black grapes: "white of blacks."  Made from either Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier or a blend of the two in a light red color.

Rose Champagne -- Made by blending a little red wine, mainly Pinot Noir.  There are a few houses that macerate on the skins, as in making red wine.

Prestige Cuvee -- These are the most expensive cuvees (best juice from the press) produced by a Champagne house, usually made from the best grapes and aged longer. Think Roederer Cristal and Moet Dom Perignon.

Additionally, there is Brut Nature, a bone dry wine; Extra-Brut, with no dosage, such as "Brut Sauvage" and "Ultra Brut;" and Demi-Sec and Doux, sweet Champagnes that can get up to 5% RS or more. 

For decades, Champagne producers have been trying to persuade the wine buying public that Champagne is an anytime wine, not just for special occasions.  

To that, I say a votre sante!

 

Next blog: Cabernet Franc

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

  

My Life in Wine Episode 16

In the last episode, I was in New York to help launch the Wine Spectator's first Wine Experience. Attendees milled about the Windows on the World meeting rooms, sipped wine, attended conferences and were entertained by guests like Tom Smothers, aka "Yo-Yo Man."  Then, it was back to California.

A row of "Painted Ladies," viewed from Alamo Square, San Francisco

The big news around the Spectator offices in San Diego was another move, this time to San Francisco. Moving the newspaper closer to wine country had always been in the works, even if the staff didn't know about it.  There was a little resistance at first, but ultimately, everyone decided to stay with the paper. 

So, with the Wine Experience now part of Spectator history, it was time to prepare for the move to San Francisco. 

Americans live in a mobile society, moving many times in their career for job advancement, or just job security.  The cost of living in San Diego was high, but San Francisco was a shock!  Living in the city was not an option and then there was commuting costs, parking and more. 

In short order, we had to adapt to the new offices in Opera Plaza, unpack, while publishing a newspaper and staying current on wine news.  Looming over everything was a necessary update in the mechanics of laying out and printing a growing newspaper.  The Wine Spectator was still old school: typewriters, manual paste up, writing and sizing headlines...it was time to come into the computer age. 

All of this change caused a lot of stress and frayed nerves.  But staff writers (James Suckling, Greg Walter and later James Laube) were now close enough to wine country for day trips.  

However, we weren't ready for the accusation from California vintners that the Spectator was a "California publication."  

Barging on Ole Miss

In the early years, the Spectator had a reputation for being too focused on California wine. The common belief then was because of geography, wine writers west of the Mississippi had a "California palate," (I'm not sure where Oregon and Washington figured in this trope.) while those writers east of the Mississippi (read New York-based) had a "European palate."

To get the word out that the Spectator was a magazine about all wine, I began to actively recruit contributing writers. At the time, the British magazine Decanter was the most-read English language wine magazine and the editors were not shy about claiming an exclusivity to the coverage of European wines. 

Nevertheless, the Spectator needed an image change and the fastest way to do that was to bring writers on board who covered the European wine scene.  Among those that were writing then exclusively about European wines for the British market, and who began to contribute to the Spectator were Michael Broadbent MW, Serena Sutcliffe MW, Hugh Johnson, Alan Spencer, Kit Stevens MW and many more. 

American wine writers that joined a growing list of contributors included: Harriet Lembeck, Richard Paul Hinkle, Robert Lawrence Balzer, Craig Goldwyn, Howard Goldberg, Frank Prial, Tom Stockley and Canadian writer and educator, Tony Aspler.

Although the paper was moving ahead, Marvin Shanken, the publisher and I had growing differences of opinion on the editorial direction. He wanted advertising (including cigars) and editorial to reflect more lifestyle, while I felt a moderate amount of lifestyle ads that related directly to wine and no tobacco was the way to move forward.  

Naturally, the publisher prevailed and so the editor moved on.  For me, leaving the Spectator meant a return to free-lance writing.  I was soon contacted by other wine magazines and that's the next episode of My Life in Wine. 

Next blog:  Shampanskoie

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

Sicilian Cornucopia

"He opened a bottle of black wine, a heady, molten wine that situated us immediately in the center of the universe."   Henry Miller

 

Today, it has become a cliche among wine fans to say that Italy is one continuous vineyard from the cool hillside vineyards at the top of the boot to the warmer expanses scattered near the toe and heel.  

Often ignored is Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean and the source of a wide range of wines. 

Sicily is just off the toe, separated from the Italian mainland by the narrow Strait of Messina.  Fact is, the island is closer to Africa than Italy, a  reflection of the character and heartbeat of the island and the Sicilian people. Palermo, the capital city, is a pulsating chaotic blend of Italian, Spanish, French and Arab cultures that somehow seem to have found a way to live together.                                  

Aside -- On my last trip to Sicily, I stayed in a grand old pile of a hotel in Palermo, purported to be where the German composer Richard Wagner composed his opera "Parsifal."  As far as I could tell, though, the guests were not aware that the hotel was also the residence of a Mafia don, who was fond of making grand entrances and exits. 

Was this the mysterious don?

While waiting to go to dinner, I stepped outside and noticed a large black Alfa Romeo sedan, motor running, backed up to the hotel on one side of the ornate portico and a Palermo police car sitting quietly on the other side of the entrance. 

Back in the spacious lobby, all eyes were turned toward the sweeping grand staircase.  I asked a bellhop what all the excitement was about.  He shrugged and murmured something about the don going out for the night.  

Then, the don appeared at the top of the staircase, overcoat draped across his shoulders.  With a nod that he was ready, the don descended the stairs, flanked by four beefy bodyguards. They moved quickly through the buzzing crowd, across the lobby and out the door to the waiting Alfa, which sped into the night with the police car following behind.    

 

Sicily is Italy's third largest wine producer, behind only Veneto and Emilia-Romagna. Until the 1980s, Sicily was best known for the sweet sticky Marsala and oceans of deeply colored robust bulk wine, much of it (86% today) sold to large wineries on the mainland to give their lighter wines a boost. 

Except for the warmest central parts of the island, the majority of the vineyards benefit from a warm Mediterranean climate.  As a general rule, native varieties, such as Nero d'Avola and Grillo, are the most common, although continental grapes like Chardonnay and Merlot have become very popular.  Like most other wine regions, the push is to find micro-climates where non-indigenous grapes will grow, supplying the wines popular in the international markets. 

Prior to 2011, most Sicilian wine was labeled IGT, a catchall designation similar to Vino da Tavola.  The change elevated Sicily's two most popular wines, the black Nero d'Avola and white Grillo to the newly designated Sicilia DOC. The former IGT was changed to Terre Siciliane IGT, one level lower than Sicilia DOC. 

Aside -- Italy's complicated DOC system, a cousin to the French AOC, deals with geography among other things, but is only an implied indication of quality. However, a few labeling terms will help make more informed buying decisions. 

IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, the category of wines that does not qualify, for one reason or another, under Italian rules for DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status. IGT is the bottom rung of a pyramid, with DOC wines in the middle, topped by a small number of wines designated as DOCG (DOC e Garantita).  Portugal and Romania also use the initials DOC to identify their labeling systems.

The vineyards of Mt. Etna

When shopping for Sicilian wine, look for both appellations and grape names.  The most popular appellations are Terre Siciliane IGT, Etna DOC and Faro DOC, plus Marsala DOC if you hankering for sweet wine.  

Nero d'Avola is everywhere today, especially from Etna DOC and Siracusa (Syracuse) DOC.  Other native grapes to look for on labels include Grillo and Cataratto for whites, and Nerello Mascalese,  Nerello Cappucio and Nocera for reds.

In 1968, Etna DOC was designated as Sicily's first DOC. The most popular wine is Etna Rosso, based on the two Nerello grapes.  And there is an Etna Bianco.  Similar in style, and based on the same native grapes, is Faro DOC, from the eastern corner of the island.

Finally, although the number of DOC wines from Sicily is low, the movement for more DOC wines is encouraging, especially moderately priced wines carrying the Sicilia DOC designation. 

Sicily produces a cornucopia of lively fruit-forward wines and more are appearing now on the shelves of your local wine store. 

Next blog: My Life in Wine Episode 16

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

Sierra Foothills

"Excellent wine generates enthusiasm.  And whatever you do with enthusiasm is generally successful."  Phillippe de Rothschild, French vintner

 

In the late 19th century, when gold was discovered in the Sierra foothills of California, a stream of adventurous entrepreneurs arrived in the Golden State seeking their fortune, not by panning for gold, but by providing the necessities to the hardworking miners. 

One of those necessities was wine, a rustic tonic to take the edge off the hard-scrabble daily grind of dig, dig, dig, with nothing to show for all the hard work. 

Recorded evidence shows that vines were growing in the foothills, alongside mine encampments that sprouted up like Angel's Camp, Murphys and Fair Play.  Miners were thirsty and there seemed to be no shortage of amateur winemakers to help the miners slake their thirst after a long day panning or wielding a pick and shovel. 

Those days, of course, are part of California history.  But while the gold soon disappeared, Sierra Foothill wine making expanded.  The political region sprawls along the western edge of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, including these six counties: Amador, Calaveras, El Dorado, Nevada, Mariposa and Yuba. The Sierra Foothills American Viticultural Area (AVA) also takes in all six of the counties, but in wine terms, it's really just Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras AVAs. 

Did You Know? -- American Viticultural Area (AVA) is the United States system of permitted geographical designations.  The AVA system is roughly similar to the French Appellation Controlee.

Within Amador County are two AVAs: Fiddletown and California Shenandoah Valley, both famous for Zinfandel.  Fair Play and El Dorado are the two AVAs in El Dorado County, noted more for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay then Zinfandel.

California Shenandoah Valley AVA (1982/1987) -- In Northern Virginia, close to the Nation's Capital, is the Shenandoah Valley AVA, established well before the California Shenandoah appellation.  There was a bit of a dust up when California's Shenandoah filed for AVA status, but Virginia had historic precedence, thus the state name on the front of the California Shenandoah AVA. 

Another example of contentious appellation differences was the use of the name "Champagne" by California wineries.  After years of objections by the Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC), established California sparkling wine producers, such as Korbel, were allowed to use the name "Champagne" on their labels so long as the winery identified their wines as "California Champagne." 

Amador, and indeed vineyards throughout the foothills, are known for old vine varieties like Zinfandel, Grenache, Barbera and a few others.  Known single vines and whole vineyards in California have been documented at 125 years old. The term "old vine" has no legal definition and TTB, the federal regulatory agency responsible for labeling, has decided not to legally define the term, claiming too much variability.  However, the general acceptance is that any vine older than 40 years can be considered an old vine. 

Amador County Zinfandels are well known for their concentrated berry flavors, owing in part to the efforts of wineries such as Shenandoah Vineyards and Montevina and to the persistence of Sacramento wine retailer Darrell Corti, who urged wineries to bottle old-vine Zinfandel. 

Calaveras County AVA -- Calaveras is a sub-region of the larger Sierra Foothills AVA.  Centered around the historic town of Murphys, are about 20 wineries, including Newsome-Harlow, Stevenot and Ironstone Vineyard, producing Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah, plus a range of wines from Italian and Rhone varieties. 

                       

El Dorado AVA (1983/1987) -- El Dorado is a part of the Sierra Foothills AVA, one of the largest in California. Vineyards are planted at elevations up to 3,500 feet, in a rolling topography of hills and valleys. The cool mountain breezes and varying topography allow for microclimate conditions, just right for Zinfandel, Barbera, Syrah and a variety of Rhone varieties. 

Fairplay AVA (2001)-- The vineyards of this appellation in El Dorado County are higher than those in Amador County, reaching up to 3,600 feet.  These conditions allow for a cooler leaner style of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Riesling. There are 32 wineries in the Fairplay AVA, including Gros Ventre Cellars and Cedarville Vineyard.

Fiddletown AVA (1983/1987) -- Some of the settlers that had come west looking for gold stayed on and eventually planted vines along with other crops. The vineyards of Fiddletown, considered "The Heart of the Motherlode," are planted at 1,500 ft. to 2,500 ft.

Zinfandel is the signature Fiddletown grape, but the area is also known for Grenache, Barbera and Petite Sirah. There are just a handful of wineries, including Fiddletown Cellars and Damas Vineyards.  Ridge Vineyards, in the hills of Santa Clara County, established a reputation for distinctive Zinfandels, sourced from many vineyards, among them Fiddletown.

North Yuba AVA (1985) -- In a couple of ways, the Yuba County AVA is the outlier in the Sierra Foothills.  The appellation has less vineyard acreage than the other AVAs and it has only one winery, Renaissance Vineyard & Winery, which is a story in itself. Following some experimentation with different grapes and types of oak for aging, Renaissance established a reputation for award-winning dessert wines.

Generalizing about Sierra Foothills wine is meaningless, but one thing that can be said is that the region is known for robust and fruit-packed Zinfandels and attention getting Rhone-style wines.  When considering California wine, give yourself a break from the North Coast and head for the hills. 

Next blog: Sicily: A Verdant Island of Contrasts

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com