Original Zin

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Apologies to Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson, but I needed a title for this post on Zinfandel, so I cribbed it from their book, "Original Sin."  The book lays out a detailed  and disturbing account of how Joe Biden's stubbornness helped to get us into the political quagmire we are now slogging through. 

While the book outlines how grim the present political climate is in the country,  the outlook for Zinfandel is bright and currently making a bit of a comeback. 

So, I thought an update on Zinfandel, the uniquely American red wine, would be a good way to forget about national politics, at least for a few minutes, and start the new year on a positive vinous note.

The story of American wine didn't begin with Zinfandel, but with indigenous grapes.  It soon became apparent that wine drinkers wanted their wine to taste like European wine, so the wine scene in the east turned to hybrids, while California, Washington and Oregon settled on Vitis vinifera, the genus that includes such popular varieties as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Following propagation in an Austrian nursery, "Zenfendel" crossed the Atlantic, changed its name in a New England nursery and eventually made the journey west to California. 

By the end of the 1850s, Zinfandel, had become a uniquely American grape, growing in the vineyards of Sonoma and Napa and other spots in California.  

Early in California's history, it was common for Zinfandel to share a vineyard with simpatico red varieties like Petite Sirah, Mourvédre and Carignane, in a field blend.  

Each grape brought something different to a harmonious blend, but Zin's dominant  flavors won out and today's examples are 100% Zinfandel, with the exception of a few that favor Petite Sirah with Zinfandel.

The attraction was flavors of pepper, cinnamon, black cherry, blackberry, plums and raisins.  A finished Zin presented good acidity and was compatible for aging in either American or French oak, the latter adding a touch of spice.   

With the development of DNA technology in the 1990s, a new historical path for Zinfandel was charted.  A back and forth argument asked if Zinfandel was related to a grape in Italy, and was finally settled when DNA showed that Zinfandel and Primitivo of southern Italy, were the same grape. 

The search wasn't done, though, since DNA also made the connection between Zinfandel and an ancient variety in the vineyards of Croatia. 

Today, small amounts of Zinfandel can be found in such far flung places as South Africa, Western Australia, Chile and Italy.  But California has the most plantings, especially in Sonoma County and the Sierra Foothills  

A short list of representative California Zinfandel includes these Zin masters: Robert Biale, Ridge, Ravenswood, St. Francis, Kenwood, Peachy Canyon, Sutter Home, Fetzer, Amador Foothill Winery, Rosenblum, Dry Creek Vineyard, Shenandoah.

Zinfandel goes with just about any food you'd pair with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. But I find that Zin and grilled ribs slathered in a fruity barbecue sauce or grilled steaks and vegetables are great food and wine marriages. 

 

Next post: The rise of Hybrid Grapes

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