A Look at Hybrids

                                                                                                                                                  Pixabay image

There was a time when the United States was divided by grape genus: Vitis  labrusca in the east and Vitis vinifera out west.  

The separations were understandable.  Eastern growers struggled with the damage  harsh eastern winters had on the more delicate vinifera varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, so they made wine from more weather-tolerant grapes native to North America. 

California, and later Oregon and Washington state, didn't have problems with severe, cold weather, so growing wine grapes, especially vinifera, was a better choice. There is also an historical angle about how wine grapes got to California, but that's another story. 

The problem with native grapes is they have a pronounced flavor described as "foxy," an off-putting animal-like character, not the fruits and flowers of fine European wines that were becoming so popular.  It was a vinous problem that needed a practical solution.

 Attempts to grow vinifera in such places as Seneca Lake, were mostly unsuccessful, and native grape wines were a hard sell, so growers began to look at hybrids, as a way to overcome winter kill of their grapevines. 

Food and ampelographers (plant scientists) worked on the problem, developing new vines and processes for the wine business that would adapt to local climates and conditions, while making life easier for the grower.  Ampelography is the branch of plant science that develops vine varieties.  

So, in the early 1980s, Wineries and growers planted  American and French hybrid grapes in eastern and mid-western vineyards, especially New York's Finger Lakes district.

Fast forward to the current worry about climate change and the impact it is having on the suitability of where to plant certain varieties.  Some talk is circulating about taking a new look at hybrid varieties for California, and more specifically which grapes to plant where.

Originally, the aim of hybridizers was to develop resistance to pest and vine diseases.  In eastern and Midwest vineyards, it was also important to eliminate vine winter kill.  

Basically, there are hybrid varieties and crosses.  A hybrid is the result of two different species, while a cross is between two varieties of the same species. In eastern U.S. vineyards there are both American and French hybrid grapes. 

A few of the many American hybrids include: Norton, a popular red variety, valued for its lack of foxy character; Concord, the most widely planted American hybrid, used for wine, juice and as a table grape; Niagara, the white answer to Concord, it has a foxy flavor and is planted widely in New York, eastern Canada and Brazil.

French hybrids widely planted in American vineyards, include  Baco (Noir), Seibel, Villard, Chambourcin and Maréchal Foch. Ironically, while some hybrids proved useful outside of France, a few, such as Isabella and Noah have been illegal since 1934.

The main problem with using hybrid grapes for wine is their objectionable flavor.  However, although it is not likely that hybrids will be used for fine wine, they may find success in more commercial wines.

 

Next post:  The Fashion of White Wine

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