Gruner Veltliner & The Anniversary

Austria's capital city of Vienna has many attractions to satisfy even the most jaded world traveler. Few are more satisfying for the wine lover than Gemischter satz. And all of the grapes for Gemischter are from suburban vineyards, making Vienna one of few major world cities with thriving vineyards and its own style of wine.

Flowing freely from the unique collection of wine taverns, around Vienna, Gemischter satz, loosely translated as "mixed set," is a blend of up to 20 varieties. The majority grape, Gruner Veltliner, is Austria's most important grape.  Riesling, which happens to be the second most important grape, is part of the "set" as is Weissburgunder and Traminer.  

An aside.  On a balmy summer evening, a number of years ago, I headed to Grinzing, one of the many small Vienna suburbs with popular Heuriger (wine taverns), to wet my palate with some Gemischter satz.  I knew nothing about the wine, except for the tongue-twisting name.  But I was willing and ready to learn.  

Sipping Gruner at an outdoor Heurige

Tables were set outside and an aproned waiter motioned me to an empty one near the sidewalk.  Like magic, a glass of chilled white wine was set in front of me, along with a menu.  "Is this Gemischter satz?" I asked mangling the wine name. "Yes," came the patient reply.  

"Would you like to order food?" the waiter asked with a smile. I looked at the menu and decided on weisswurst, sauteed red cabbage and a hard roll, a combination that I hoped was a good choice with the wine. 

How could I miss, a casual meal in such pleasant surroundings on a lovely evening. As for the wine, it was what I expected: light and fruity with a touch of spice and a hint of bitterness, balanced with crisp acidity.

Austria's Green Wine

Gruner Veltliner, the national grape of Austria, is named for the town of Valtelina in northern Italy.  Gruner traces its ancestry to Savagnin, an ancient French variety, which also happens to be related to Sauvignon Blanc.

                                       

There is also a roter (red) veltliner and a fruhroted (early-ripening red-skinned) veltliner, but they are not genetically related to Gruner Veltliner.

Although Gruner is widely planted in Austria, it is prone to disease, so the vines must be trained high to allow for maximum air circulation, on a Lenz Moser trellis system, named for the famed Austrian viticulturist. 

More than half of the country's Gruner is grown in Lower Austria, but also in Kamptal in the north and the Wachau district west of Vienna. 

Popular styles of Gruner include single varietal, Austrian sekt (sparkling) and a sweet version from Austria's famed Burgenland.

Viewed through the lens of modern wine, it may seem that Gruner Veltliner has only recently made the scene. But there is evidence that Gruner was around in Roman times, when it was known as Gruner Muskateller.  Gruner became more commonly grown in the 19th century.

In the last 20 years, interest in Gruner Veltliner has taken off and today it is a popular alternative white variety in New Zealand, Australia, Washington state, California, Pennsylvania and Maryland.

Gruner's attraction is a combo flavor of citrus peel and white pepper, with a mineral back note and all balanced nicely with mouth-watering acidity, a combination that reminds some of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. 

And like Riesling, Gruner hits all the right notes when paired with Chinese and Thai dishes. fried foods, lightly prepared fish and Gruner is a favorite with vegetarians for its flavor affinity with vegetables. 

Versatility is a hallmark of Gruner Veltliner, especially when grown in Austria. The flavors of Gruner have encouraged tasters to use descriptors as wide-ranging as green beans and black pepper.  Austrians describe this peppery taste as pfefferl.

The majority of Gruner Veltliner consumed today, especially in the United States, is intended for early drinking.  Add a couple years of bottle aging and Gruner transforms into a complex wine with tropical fruit and nutty flavors, again more like an aged Riesling.  

There are a lot of Gruners on the market, but here are six to get you started.   Pichler-Krautzler and Prager, from Wachau; Alram, Etz and Schloss Gobelsburg, all from Kamptal; And Nigl from Kremstal.  Most Gruners are priced from $14 to $40. One domestic Gruner that sells well is Joel Gott, Columbia Valley, Washington, $17. Lastly, Canadian wine writer Tony Gismondi says that British Columbia Gruner Veltliner is a "qualified classic."

Wine trends come and go.  Pinot Grigio and Albarino had their days and still have strong appeal to a lot of white wine drinkers. It's time now for Gruner Veltliner.

 

The Anniversary.  This month marks four years of "Gerald D Boyd On Wine" wine blogs.  In more than 180 postings, I've stayed with the statement made in that first blog:

"... I am introducing Gerald D Boyd On Wine, a  wine primer for newcomers to wine and those fans of wine wanting more background information.  No wine politics, wine gossip, wine technology and other assorted topics that are covered by other wine bloggers and wine publications."

In the future, there will be a few changes in the format but not the focus of the blog or the content.  I plan on keeping "Gerald D Boyd On Wine" as interesting and informative as I can...and I hope you will stay with me.

Next blog: Barolo: Italian Red Wine at its Finest

Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

California Wine Adventures

When I was a young boy in Pennsylvania, pestering my mother for a taste of her New York Port, it never occurred to me that one day I would be tasting wine in California.

How could you foresee that such a momentous change would someday alter the direction of your life? Growing up with milk and soda (I hadn't heard of "pop" and "soft drink" until I left home), wine was not a part of my life.  

In the early 1950s, I did what a lot of young men did in those days, join the military of choice.  For me, it was the U. S. Air Force, probably because my brother was on active duty then in the Air Force.  In quick succession, I was assigned to New York state, Illinois and then Germany.  

Prosit with Hofbrauhaus

My friends and I drank a lot of beer during the three years I was stationed in Bavaria. By chance, I went to a wine festival and discovered white wine, probably  Riesling or Sylvaner, that was unlike any beverage I had had before.  

That discovery was a real eye-opener for me.  But the "real" wine epihany was to happen later in France. 

There comes a time in every wine drinkers life when that first taste of a certain wine sets the stage for a lifetime of wine appreciation.  For me, it was in a French train station restaurant, drinking what I remember was a Beaujolais.  Now, more than 60 years later, I don't recall the winery name or what I had for dinner that evening, but the deep ruby color and rich fruity flavor of the wine is forever etched in my wine memory.

Fast forward to 1962 in San Jose, California. My neighbor asked if I would like to spend a Saturday afternoon visiting a winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains.  David Bruce was not a familiar name to me then, but my neighbor assured me that Bruce was some kind of wine guru, "so you have to go to his winery and listen to what he has to say about wine."

Well, okay, I thought.  Any information about wine from this supposed oracle, would be news to me since I didn't know the first thing about wine. So, on the appointed Saturday, I jumped into my neighbor's car and we headed southwest from San Jose to the Santa Cruz Mountains, home to, as I would later learn, more wineries than just David Bruce.

We arrived at the winery in time to join a tour with a few others. As the small group moved through the cellar, we passed fermentation tanks, hoses, pumps and oak barrels, while the guide explained the function of each and the part each  played in the wine making process. It all went by in a blur.  

Then, I saw the bottling line, gleaming in the bright light, with stations for filling, corking and labeling. It was a fascinating sight, in all its shining mechanical magnificence! 

                                 

Later, as a wine writer, I shuttered at hearing, "...and this is our bottling line,"  when it became boringly apparent that at every winery I visited, there would be, without fail, a bottling line to see and admire.

The early tasting of David Bruce wines left me with an awareness that there was a lot to learn and many wines yet to taste and that I would spend as much time and effort as I could cultivating a taste for Pinot Noir.  

Not long after the visit to David Bruce, my family and I moved across town to East San Jose, where I discovered that Mirassou Vineyards was only a few miles from my house. Unfortunately, it took me years before my first visit to Mirassou. 

For the next three years, my attention turned to other interests.  I didn't lose my interest in wine, but shifted to spending more time with family and furthering my education that I had woefully ignored in high school. 

Being on a career path in the Air Force does not make it easy to collect wines.   And it got even more difficult when I was transferred to a remote station in northern Labrador.          

                                    

My one wine adventure at Saglek Air Force station was at the end of 1965. The station commander, a man we all thought hadn't smiled in a decade, brought in a couple cases of Mateus Portuguese Rose for the unit Thanksgiving dinner. To this day, I still remember the colonel toasting the troops with a thin smile and how that simple off-dry pink wine tasted with roast turkey and all the trimmings. 

Back in the states, I spent four years honing my writing skills as an Air Force  training film script writer in Colorado. Then, I was off again, this time to Taiwan, where I had the personal once-in-a-lifetime experience of tasting Chinese "wine,"  a high alcohol liquid that I questioned had ever seen a grape. 

Next stop: South Carolina and another first for me. After ten years in the U.S. Air Force, I was finally assigned to a base that had planes.  In fact, Charleston AFB was the first base to welcome the C-5 Galaxy to active duty.  

And, I soon discovered that the city of Charleston had a Piggly Wiggly supermarket, with a wine section stocked with a respectable selection of European wines.  There I was, in South Carolina, drinking wine in a place more accustomed to sipping Bourbon and beer. 

In the July 14 installment of "California Wine Adventures" my family and I return to Colorado and my on-again-off-again career as a wine writer is on again. 

Next blog: Gruner Veltliner

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

Sicily

The following posting is an impression of my visit to Sicily a few years ago and those of my son, Sean, co-owner/winemaker of Sightglass Cellars in Washington, who spent two weeks there with his wife, Kristin, in May.

Sicily is an island of many contrasting natural features, from the snow-capped Mt. Etna volcano, to the tempering presence of the Mediterranean.  

Resting between the toe of Italy and North Africa, Sicily is about the size of Massachusetts and is unique among the 20 regions of Italy for its diversity of vineyard sites and grape varieties, making it second only to Veneto in production.

Many Americans think of Sicily as a hot dry land where life is controlled by the Mafia.  Crime is a problem in Sicily, as it is everywhere else, but the presence of a criminal element is mostly behind the scenes and doesn't intrude in the daily activities of the wine tourist.                                  

                                                    

For years, Sicily was known for making oceans of bulk wine and, with the exception of Marsala, little bottled wine. All of this production led to expansion of fine wine in numerous sub-regions throughout the island.  Today, there are 23 DOC sub-regions, with Cerasuolo di Vittoria, in the southeast, the only DOCG wine. 

White and Black Grapes

Sicily is a dynamic wine region that holds on to the sweet fortified Marsala and a wide variety of indigenous grapes like Nerello Mascalese, while promoting the increasingly popular red Nero d'Avola and widely planted Catarratto and Grillo white grapes. 

Far and away, Nero d'Avola is Sicily's best known red wine, made by 84 wineries at last count. A lot of Nero goes into blends, especially with Frappato, a more delicate wine but one that works well in blends.  Although Sicily grows more white wine grapes than red, American wine drinkers are most familiar with Nero d'Avola.

Grillo, a popular Sicilian cross of Catarratto and Muscat Alexandria, is a dry wine with the orange zest and floral flavors of Muscat wine, but is more muted than a full Muscat, a wine that is too much for some tastes. Grillo is building interest in Sicily and may soon challenge Cataratto for white wine dominance.

Sicilian winemakers recognize that, to compete in an international market, a winery needs to have a more diverse portfolio than just Nero d'Avola and Catarratto.  Thus, international varieties, like Syrah and Chardonnay are gaining interest, as are indigenous grapes like the dark black Nocera and the red twins Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, in vineyards across the island, but notably on the slopes of Etna and in the Faro DOC. 

Sicily Region by Region

The regional focus that follows is on Vittoria DOCG and Etna DOC, two of Sicily's most important sub-regions.  Other noted sub-regions include Marsala DOC, Faro DOC and Sicilia DOC, but they are for another time.

 

Reflecting on his time in Sicily, Sean said, "We had wines in restaurants, at wineries and we took wine back to our room to sample and enjoy. I was impressed by the history and the decades of planting and knowing what grapes worked best."   

Vittoria was officially recognized as a DOC in 1973 and upgraded to DOCG in 2005. Today, Vittoria is Sicily's only DOCG, mainly on the strength of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red blend of Nero d'Avolo and Frappato. "Cerasuolo" is Italian for "cherry-red," the color of the blended wine. 

Some wineries in Vittoria mature their wine in terracotta amphorae, a unique technique that eliminates oak influence.  "Before I went to Sicily," Sean recalls, "my impression of Nero d'Avola was that it was bigger and fuller, but the ones we tasted during our visit were lighter, nicely balanced, with a less broad palate."  He says that the Nero d'Avolos he tasted, specifically from Vittoria, were most like a Washington Cabernet Franc or Syrah.

 

Amphorae similar to those at Cos

 

Cos and Occhipinti, were two must-see Vittoria wineries Sean and Kristin, for different reasons. "Cos was using amphora to age their red wine, a technique I had read about but hadn't seen before. And there was this incredibe view of Mt. Etna from the winery.  Occhipinti had a range of red wines at different prices, based mainly on Nero d'Avolo and it was the place that Stanley Tucci visited in his television show about wineing and eating in Italy. "

 

Etna DOC stands in the shadow of 11,00 foot Mt. Etna, an active volcano that is both a contributor and a threat to the sub-region's grape growing and wine making. Etna's volcanic soil provides grapes with special nutrients and a characteristic minerality.  But Etna could blow at any time.

 

The quality of Sicilian white wines were unexpected discovery for Sean.  "It was surpizing that the white wines were so crisp and clean, coming from such a warm area. I enjoyed the Catarattos, especially from the Etna sub-region. But I didn't find Grillo as complex as Cataratto, more like Pinot Grigio."

 

Terra Costantino, in the Etna DOC, is Sicily's first organic winery. The philosophy of the winery is steeped in Greek mythology and head-trained vines rooted in volcanic soil.  As an owner of a small winery in Washington, Sean felt a kinship with Terra Costantino.  "I liked the hand-on attitude at Costantino and thought the Contrada Blandano, a blend of Cataratto and Carricante, was the best Costantino wine I tasted. It was so clean and crisp."  Costantino also makes Grillo. 

 

Another Etna favorite was Biondi, a small winery on Etna's slopes, with vineyards rich in minerals from the volcanic soil. Biondi grows Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Catarattor and Carricante. "The Biondi San Nicolo, made from Nerello Mascalese, was an excellent wine that was new to me," Sean says.

 

"On reflection, I felt the quality of Sicilian wines and the dedication of the winemakers was very high," says Sean. "One thing that puzzled me, though, is that every winemaker I spoke to claimed they only picked their grapes on flavor (phenolic) ripeness. And yet, all of the wines we tasted had listed alcohols around 12% to 13%.  I asked how that could be, with the high summer heat, temperatures and humidity, but I never got a good answer."  

Still, white wines were a pleasant part of Sean's Sicilian wine experience. While touring around the island, Sean and Kristin had many opportunities to taste Sicilian foods with the local wines. "The crisp acidity and clean fruit flavors of the  whites were really good with the local cuisines, like fresh fish." 

 

Sean can now check Sicily off his bucket list.  "People I talked to before our trip said Sicily is a must-see for the history, food and wine...and they are right. And Sicily is less touristy than other parts of Italy and less expensive." 

Look for Sicilian wines in your local wine shop. Better yet, go to Sicily this summer and taste the sun-washed flavors of Sicilian wine and food. 

 

Next blog: The first in a series of personal experiences titled "California Wine Adventures."

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, one of my favorite people to books and wine education has a website and here page on Sicily is worth reading. https://sicily.guides.winefolly.com/

Anderson Valley

In the early part of the 1970s, while Napa and Sonoma were setting the wine world on its ear, little attention was paid to the wines of Mendocino County.  And there was even less said about Anderson Valley. 

Anderson Valley flowers and vines

Ukiah, where Barney Fetzer and John Parducci made their wines, is a convenient off-ramp from the main north-south US-101 through Mendocino. But to reach the secluded Anderson Valley, a thirsty wine fan had to exit 101 outside Cloverdale, onto a winding two-lane state Route 128 or approach the valley over the narrow Route-253 mountain road south of Ukiah. 

The scenic drive along R-128 takes you past Navarro, Greenwood Ridge, Husch, Handley and Roederer Estate, among other wineries.  West through Philo the road eventually ends at the Pacific Ocean.                          

An aside.  The cluster of a group of small businesses and a hotel, that is  Boonville, is known for two things, although both are probably slipping out of the public memory.  Boontling, an American jargon, developed in the late 19th century, is spoken today only by a few old timers in western Mendocino County.  Hang around Boonville long enough, though, and you might hear someone talking about a "sharkin match" (fight), or telling a story out of church about the local "skype" or pastor. 

Old time residents of Boonville may also tell you about the time a mysterious young couple breathed life back into a run down Boonville Hotel and Restaurant and then slipped out of town one night owing a lot of money.  The hotel is thriving again and so too is Boonville.

Anderson Valley White Wines

Cool climate growing conditions, especially for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and aromatic whites like Riesling and especially, Gewurztraminer, attracted winemakers in the 1970s to Anderson Valley, along with, of course, some reasonable prices for arable land. 

Parducci Wine Cellars in Ukiah is the oldest winery in Mendocino, opening its doors in 1932.  In Anderson Valley, Lazy Creek Vineyards, 1973, makers of excellent Gewurztraminer, holds the longevity honors, followed by Handley Cellars, 1981, also known for Gewurtz and Chardonnay. 

Since 1974, Navarro Vineyards has been committed to making outstanding Gewurztraminer and building a reputation for excellent Riesling, as well. And Navarro makes some of the best late harvest styles from those two varieties.  

A short distance past Navarro is Lazy Creek Vineyards started by a Swiss couple that planted a vineyard in 1973 and one of the valley's first wineries.  Lazy Creek has long been recognized for the best Alsace dry-style Gewurtz in California. 

Across the highway is Husch Vineyard, one of the oldest wineries in Anderson Valley. Husch has a solid following for Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay, plus old vine Zinfandel and Pinot Noir.  In 1979, the Oswald family bought Husch and expanded the line. 

Further along R-128 is Roederer Estate, the California outpost for the noted Champagne firm of Louis Roederer.  Vineyards were first planted at Roederer Estate in 1982, with the construction of a winery to follow.  Roederer Estate bubbly is among California's finest, especially the prestige bottling, L'Ermitage. 

Beyond Roederer and just before getting to Navarro, is Handley Cellars, founded in 1981, with winemaker Mila Handley turning out excellent Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.   

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

California wine lore is partly about the search for the Holy Grail of red wine: Pinot Noir.  The faithful looked throughout the state and found ideal conditions for Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara, Russian River, Los Carneros and more recently in the Anderson Valley.

In the early 1980s, the owners of Champagne Roederer settled on Anderson Valley as a good place to grow Pinot Noir for their California sparkling wine. While Moet & Chandon and G. H. Mumm opted for the trendier Napa Valley, Roederer decided the place to be making sparkling wine in California was the off-the-tourist track of Anderson Valley.  

At one time, the advice coming out of the University of California Davis was to pass on Pinot Noir since there is no place in the state for a grape that loves a cool climate. Fortunately, there were those who believed Pinot Noir had a future in Anderson Valley, with its ocean influence and good soils.  

Common Goldeneye                             Audubon

In 1996, the Duckhorns of Napa Valley founded the Goldeneye Winery in the cool climate of Anderson Valley, to make a Pinot Noir the equal of the noted Duckhorn Merlot. It was a decision that paid off with the success of Goldeneye, named for the Common Goldeneye migratory diving duck. Goldeneye also makes a dry Alsace-style Gewurztraminer.

Anderson Valley may be off the tourist trail, but the diversion is worth the time and effort, to enjoy a cool glass of Gewurztraminer or a satisfying Pinot Noir, before continuing along the trail to the scenic Pacific Ocean. 

Next blog: Sicily

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

Kiwi Reds

New Zealand, the other Down Under country, is known for its juicy Sauvignon Blanc with a tropical personality.  Not as well known are the tasty Kiwi reds. 

The list of New Zealand red wines is fairly limited with the usual Bordeaux varieties, the odd Syrah, and best of all, distinctive Pinot Noir that can take its place with the best Pinots in the world.  

Pinot Noir

New Zealand's top Pinot Noirs come from Marlborough, Martinborough and Central Otago. Marlborough and Central, are on the South Island. Martinborough is at the southern end of the North Island, across the Cook Strait from the South Island.

Marlborough Pinot Noir

Red wine fans can be divided into two general groups: the Cabernet Sauvignon crowd and lovers of Pinot Noir.  Before everything went PC, Pinot Noir was thought of as a feminine wine for its soft tannins and round voluptuous fruit; the yin of red wine. Cabernet was described as a masculine wine, probably because of its tight personality and rough edges; the yang to Pinot Noir's yin.

Exercising your wine memory is crucial for the serious wine lover. After tasting a wine that made you sit up and pay attention, your next move is to open a memory index card system, starting a new card for each time you taste a new vintage of a memorable wine. 

During a visit to New Zealand, I had an unexpected surprise when I tasted a superb pinot from Central, as the southern region is often called.  Like most anxious wine tasters, I fell for the hype about Marlborough Pinot Noirs and knew little about the pinots from Central Otago.  To be clear, both places make great Pinot Noir, but I was conditioned to favor Marlborough over Central. 

Then I visited Felton Road and tasted the Block 5 Pinot Noir, one in a small lineup of pinots from Felton Road. Block 5 was (and is) a standout, for its fragrant rose petal nose and leathery back notes.  Deep and layered, Block 5 showed concentrated cherry/berry fruit and excellent subtle tannins.  

To me, Pinot Noir has always been a wine that invites you back for a second sip.  Felton Road filled that invitation and then some.  

If are looking for pinots to try from New Zealand, here are a few more choices:  Burnt Cottage, Peregrine, Pyramid Valley, Akawa.  And from Marlborough: Cloudy Bay, Greywacke, Villa Maria, Ten Sisters.  Martinborough Pinot Noirs: Martinborough Vineyard, Ata Rangi, Dry River, Palliser.

The Other Reds

Kiwi wineries are happy that we like their Pinot Noir, but they also want wine consumers to know that New Zealand red wine is more than just Pinot Noir.  If you went to Hawke's Bay on the North Island, you'd find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah to sample and savor. 

Gimblett Gravels

The district with the wonderfully-named Gimblett Gravels is where you'll find an assortment of red grapes, led by Merlot and Syrah.  At the end of the 1980s, a group of growers and winemakers, identified the deep gravelly soils as ideal for big reds.  

I was in New Zealand after Gimblett Gravels was established and visited Craggy Range in Hawke's Bay.  My contacts back in California told me to look up Steve Smith MW, co-founder of Craggy Range and the first viticulturist in the world to become a Master of Wine. In characteristic Kiwi hospitality, Smith showed me the winery and then we sat down to taste Craggy Range wines in the winery's excellent restaurant. 

Craggy Range reds from Gimblett Gravels, mainly the Cabernet/Merlot blend and the Syrah, were big, rich and bold with pure fruit flavors.  Before my visit at  Craggy Range, I had sampled the red wines of Te Mata and found the wines to have the same Hawke's Bay richness and structure.

An aside. During my first year with the Wine Spectator, in 1979, I worked with founder Bob Morrisey.  Bob and I were retired military journalists, he the Marines, me the Air Force, who during our travels in the military had developed a taste for fine wine.  

The Spectator started in La Jolla, then moved to San Diego and it was there where I first tasted New Zealand wines, in an unusual setting. Every year, a small ship of the New Zealand Navy made port in San Diego, inviting local food and wine people aboard for a sumptuous meal of Kiwi delicacies and select wines.

That afternoon, Bob and I sat on the fantail of the ship, hosted by the ship's captain and chaplain, who referred to himself as "padre," (an odd coincidence Bob and I laughed about later, because of the San Diego Padres baseball team), noshing on Sauvignon Blanc and New Zealand shellfish, and grilled lamb and Pinot Noir.

It was, without question, the most unusual place I've ever tasted wine and I wonder if the U.S. Navy has ever sponsored an American wine and food tasting while visiting a foreign port.  Nah!

 

Next blog: Anderson Valley

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com

 

How Popular is Chardonnay?

                           

Chardonnay has famously been described as the 800-pound gorilla of wine. That dominance (some would say arrogance) has even encouraged some wag to pronounce:  "Anything but Chardonnay."

Is it fair to tag a wine with such negativity?  Well, when you're leading the competition, those lagging behind believe anything is fair game. 

Look around, Chardonnay is everywhere! There was a time (hopefully not anymore) when you would order white wine in your favorite trendy bar and Chardonnay would appear in your glass. 

As of this writing, Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in the world. In terms of plantings worldwide, Chardonnay comes after Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Airen. Chardonnay is the most planted white wine grape in California and Washington state.  California acreage in order: Monterey, Sonoma, San Joaquin, Napa and Yolo counties.

One more gee-whiz statistic: The average price per ton of Chardonnay in California is $3,000, while a ton of premium Chardonnay will cost you $1,500 in Washington state.  Those amounts might be minimums since Chardonnay from the most prized vineyards is going to fetch even higher prices.

Years ago, in California, some wineries listed the variety as "Pinot Chardonnay" on the front label. Purists objected claiming there was no such grape as "Pinot Chardonnay."  Then, along came genetic testing (aka DNA) that showed the parents of Chardonnay are Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, an obscure grape from central and northeast France. So, there is a pinot, after all, somewhere on the Chardonnay family tree.

Chardonnay Styles

Modern Chardonnay, no matter where in the world it is made, comes in two popular styles: oaked and unoaked.  For years, the oaked version was the only style available.  Fortunately, winemakers have backed off on the oak and there has been a resurgence in unoaked Chardonnay, mostly in reaction to claims that the true fruit character of Chardonnay is difficult to taste under all that oak. 

Ironically, on its own, Chardonnay can be a simple, even bland wine, so maybe a little oak seasoning will pep up the flavors. The answer to the blandness, of course, is to pick Chardonnay riper and be more selective with the grapes in the vineyard. 

Proper Chardonnay, sans oak, is ripe pears and apples that have ripened past the green stage, with traces of citrus and honey. Other descriptors include acacia, but not everyone knows what that smells like.  Burgundy has a noticeable mineral note. Add oak into the equation and everything changes.

                                            

White Burgundy, made exclusively from Chardonnay, was once the only benchmark for style.  Those wines from the Cote d'Or were more minerally with a seamless meeting of oak and fruit.  As Chardonnay from California, the Pacific Northwest and Australia, to name just a few New World regions, grew in popularity, a new benchmark was added with the minerality giving way to more fruit notes like ripe pears.

French oak seasons a wine with a spicy note, but the process of toasting (or charring) the interior of the barrel can change the character and degree of the seasoning.  Even, the forest where the oak is taken (Nevers, Troncais, Limousin) will influence the "oakiness" of the aging wine. Other influencing factors include  toasting levels (light, medium, heavy) and how the cooperage defines those levels. 

Warmer growing conditions will, of course, yield riper grapes and lower acidity, while cool areas produce lower sugar levels and higher natural acidity, so the grower and winemaker have to find the right balance.

This contrast marks the basic difference between Chardonnays from northern California and Burgundy, two places where the Chardonnay grape is the leading white variety.  

Worldwide, the local style of Chardonnay depends on such factors as where the variety is grown and how it is handled in the winery.  By and large, though, Chardonnay is either oaked or not oaked.  Italian Chardonnay is a good example. Gaja Chardonnay, made by the noted red wine producer from Barbaresco is unmistakably oaked.  Not far away, in another part of northern Italy, Chardonnay is more commonly made in the unoaked style. 

All of this begs the question: What is the best style of Chardonnay? Depends on if you like oak in your wine.  There was a quote about oak and wine circulating for years, attributed to a few people.  Louis Martini was the Napa winery owner I heard who was supposed to have said: "If I want to taste oak, I'll chew on a piece of oak wood."   

Chardonnay has a lot going for it, with oak or without.  The danger is getting in a rut, ignoring the many other white wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Arneis, Chenin Blanc, Albarino, Riesling and Gewurztraminer (even if you can't pronounce it), while knowing, that in the back of your mind, you can always come back to Chardonnay.

 

Next blog: Kiwi Reds

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Oak Seasonings

There is an analogy in wine making that goes something like this: aging wine in an oak barrel, is like seasoning stew in a pot.

Before wine is racked into a barrel, it is just wine.  After it has been in oak for a specified time, a new wine is transformed that is no longer just wine, but now something different because of its exposure to the oak. (Throughout this essay, the only wood mentioned will be oak, although there are other woods used in wine making, like chestnut).

There are many different types of oak, but just two botanical geniuses or Quercus: two European and one American that are the overwhelming choices for wine making.  European oaks used mainly in wine making are Quercus robur (aka French oak) and Quercus petraea. 

                                  

The majority of American oak used in wine making is Quercus alba.  Oregon winemakers have been experimenting with a white oak, Quercus garryana.

There is no hard and fast rule saying that any type of wine must be fermented or aged in any type of oak.  While there is some general agreement which pairing works best, winemakers are free to experiment.  In the early 1990s, Napa Valley Chardonnay was aged in French oak (and still is), but the folks at ZD Wines thought their Chardonnay tasted better after a period in American oak.

Although there are no records that Bordeaux red and white wine were ever aged in anything but French oak, winemakers in other regions discovered that certain oaks marry better with specific wines. Chardonnay, for instance, is thought to be better with less assertive French oak than more aggressive and tannic American oak.  On the other hand, American oak seems better suited to tame the strong tannins of Zinfandel. 

Another factor in deciding what oak to use was the availability of local wood. For years, some Italian winemakers used locally-grown chestnut, Chilean wines were aged in rauli (a type of evergreen beech) and California wines were matured in redwood tanks.  Local woods were used because that was what grew near the winery and was the most economical.

Of course, there is also the botanical makeup of oak trees to consider in  wine making and the aging of wine in oak.  Mostly it has to do with the physical characteristics, such as tight grain or loose grain, which determine the practical necessity of sawing or splitting the oak into lengths that will become staves.  

The trunk of an oak tree is made up of bundles of tubes, blocked by tyloses. The more tyloses and tubes the more water tight the barrel.  American oak has many tyloses, thus it can be sawn, while French oak is deficient in tyloses, requiring a cooper to split the oak. 

Oak Flavors 

The flavors in wine derived from contact with oak is a complex subject involving a lot of chemical substances.  What follows are general comments describing the three main flavoring compounds in oak. 

Lactones are compounds, higher in American oak than in French oak, that provide a coconut flavor. Toasting, or charring the inside of the barrel brings out earthy and spicy notes. 

Aldehydes provide the vanillan (vanilla) compound, found to be higher in American oak than French oak. 

Phenols provide aromatic elements, from clove to lightly smoky.

Other contributors include terpenes (perfume), carbohydrates and tannins, compounds found in some oaks.  In a broad sense, then, vanilla and coconut are associated more with American oak, while spice is more common in French oak. 

The Rise of American Oak

Years ago, American white oak, grown mainly in the Midwest, was used mostly for whiskey barrels.  Large cooperages turned out thousands of barrels, on a sort of assembly line, that were sold to Bourbon distilleries. American oak for wine use was then mostly unheard of. 

As the demand from wineries, mainly in California, grew for American oak barrels, large cooperages, like Canton, devoted a small part of their vast space to making wine barrels, mainly by hand, a process known as "raising a barrel." Seeing a chance to get into a growing business, French cooperages such as Seguin Moreau established cooperages in California wine country.

                                

There is so much more to be said about the close association of oak and wine, such as how the barrels are made, how the wine is made, how long the wine stays in contact with the oak, the age of the barrel and how many times it has been used and more.  

The bottom line is, like anything else, too much oak can spoil the wine. But careful use with just the right type of oak, and the marriage is harmonious.

Next blog: Chardonnay Styles

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Napa Series: Mountains & Valleys

Since 1983, when the first official appellations were approved, grape growing and wine making in the Napa Valley have grown to a current total of 16 American Viticultural Areas (AVA). The first six AVAs in this series, from Oak Knoll to Calistoga, were covered in the April 21 blog. 

This second (and final) part of the Napa Series will include a brief look at the remaining 10 AVAs, consisting of a mix of mountain vineyards and lesser known outlying appellations.

Napa Mountain Appellations

The emergence of a vineyard, in often inaccessible mountain locations, happens when land owners, usually looking for a quiet place to live, decide that having a vineyard might be a fun way to raise a little extra cash.  A vineyard consultant is hired, heavy equipment brought in and money starts flowing out. 

Developing vineyards at such storied sites as Howell Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Spring Mountain, Mount Veeder and Atlas Peak, required accessibility.  Constructing vineyards at elevations between 1,300 and 2,600 feet above the valley floor, posed many challenges. 

Howell Mountain (AVA 1983)is a northern district, directly northeast of Calistoga.  Cool daytime temperatures and warm nights encourage Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen with intense berry flavors and full tannins. Wineries on the mountain include O'Shaughnessy and Lamborn, while many others use grapes from Howell Mountain including Dunn, Tom Eddy and Black Stallion.

Diamond Mountain (AVA 2001) is between Calistoga and St. Helena on the west side of the valley. A variety of grapes grow best in vineyards up to 2,600 feet. Schramsberg, Napa Valley's celebrated sparkling wine producer is here as is Castello di Amoroso, with its replica of an Italian castle. Wineries include Diamond Creek Vineyards, von Strasser, Schramsberg and Seaver Vineyards.

Historic Schramsberg cellar

Spring Mountain (AVA 1993), south of Diamond Mountain, is known for its complex red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Spring Mountain whites include Chardonnay, and distinctive Riesling from Smith-Madrone. Wines to consider include Terra Valentine, Philip Togni, Smith-Madrone.

Mount Veeder (AVA 1993) is at the southern end of the valley and high in the Macacamas range. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are the main grapes, although there are 25 varieties growing at heights up to 2,500 feet.  Wineries include Hess Collection, Mayacamas, Alpha Omega, Mi Sueno and Mount Veeder Winery.

Atlas Peak (AVA 1992) is known for Cabernet Sauvignon, especially from Stagecoach Vineyard and Sangiovese from Atlas Peak Winery, once owned now managed by the Tuscany house of Marchesi Antinori.  Bordeaux varieties thrive in the rich volcanic red soil.  Among the wineries using grapes from Atlas Peak are Kongsgaard, Rombauer, Michael Mondavi Family and Bialla Vineyards.

Beyond the Valley Floor

In the smaller valleys, running east and west from the floor of the Napa Valley, the story is mostly the same, especially with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon.  Farmers and orchard owners calculate that if wine grapes will grow in the Napa Valley, dirt is dirt after all, then why not in Coombsville, Wild Horse Valley, Chiles Valley, Stags Leap District and Los Carneros.

Stags Leap District (AVA 1989) lies between Silverado Trail and the eastern foothills. Pioneers in this sub-region, (technically on the valley floor) include Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Clos du Val and Stags' Leap Winery. Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is as important as any in the valley, especially for intense blackberry flavors and supple tannins. 

A brief note on the apostrophe: The district name doesn't use it, Wine Cellars claims a single leaping stag and Winery believes there are (were) more than one stag.

Los Carneros (AVA 1983) is world famous for its distinctive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while Merlot and Syrah also draw attention.  The sub-region sprawls across Napa and Sonoma counties, at the southern end of the Maycamas range and within sight of San Pablo Bay.  Cool bay breezes set the right conditions for sparkling wines, from Gloria Ferrer, Domaine Carneros and Artesa/Codorniu Napa.

Los Carneros vineyard

Wild Horse Valley (AVA 1988) stretches across Napa and Solano counties in a remote part of Napa Valley.  Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese are prime varieties from Kenzo Estate, owned by Kenzo Tsujimoto, of video game fame. 

Chiles Valley (AVA 1999) is known for Bordeaux varieties and Zinfandel, high in the eastern Vaca Range. Various wineries source grapes including Volker Eisele, Conn Creek and Maroon Wines.

Coombsville (AVA 2011) is a newer Napa sub-appellation, situated east of Napa city. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Chardonnay are the main grapes. Wineries include Palmaz Vineyards, Frazier Winery and Ancien. 

One could argue that all the hype about the Napa Valley borders on the excess, but time has shown that the region is capable of producing red wines worth shouting about, and in that vein, Napa is no different than Bordeaux. 

Next blog: Oak Seasonings

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Bordeaux Blend

Rarely is there a wine made today that does not involve some form of blending. Even single variety wines are often blends of grapes from more than one vineyard, or from different rows within a vineyard. 

It's a skill, learned by practice, harvest after harvest. And some say that bringing that skill to blending is an art; that the sum of the parts, skillfully performed, results in an artwork desired by collectors.  

Skill, art, or a combination of both, the resulting expression is no better displayed than by what today is called "The Bordeaux Blend." 

The Bordeaux Blend was first formulated in the chateaux of the Medoc and Graves. Medoc enologists understood that each of the five grapes brought something unique to a blend, making the wine better than it might be from a single variety.  

                            

At the beginning of the modern age of California wine making, the thinking was a single variety and not a blend, varietal wines soon became the standard and blending was usually reserved for jug wines. Today, winemakers see the benefit in blending to make a more interesting wine.

The Bordeaux Blend

What is a Bordeaux blend?  A mix of Cabernet Sauvignon with one or more of the following grapes in order most often preferred today: Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec. The original blend consisted of all five varieties, but today the Bordeaux Blend is likely a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, or some variation on that blend. 

Carmenere is the "sixth" red grape of Bordeaux, used rarely by chateaux.  The grape has had moderate success in Chile, where for a long time, growers wrongly identified Carmenere for Merlot. 

Over time, Merlot (today the most planted variety in Bordeaux) began losing ground to Cabernet Franc while Malbec and Petit Verdot went back and forth until Petit Verdot won favor with most chateaux.  Still, although percentages vary by chateau, a typical blend today in the Medoc is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot.

Slight differences in the weather and soil composition established Cabernet Sauvignon as the main grape in Medoc and Graves red wines, while Merlot dominates across the river in St. Emilion and Pomerol, where a typical St. Emilion blend may be 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. 

A close look at the five varieties and what each brings to a blend will provide an insight into why winemakers construct certain blends. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is a widely planted and admired variety that is showing up in more vineyards in the world every year.  "Cab," as it is often known is slow to ripen, a blessing in those places with temperate growing conditions, but a concern in cool climates where it my be under ripe. 

Cabernet Sauvignon brings to the blend, blackberry and black currant when young, and more earthy notes, with cedar and pencil shavings with age. Firm tannins and good acidity round out the positive aspects of Cabernet Sauvignon. Under ripe Cab tends toward a green herbaceousness. 

Cabernet Franc is the ideal companion to Cabernet Sauvignon, perhaps because DNA profiling has shown it to be a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon along with Sauvignon Blanc. It matures earlier and tolerates bad weather better than Cab. 

Cabernet Franc is less tannic, has a softer texture and smells and tastes like ripe raspberries.  Besides partnering with Cab Sauv in Bordeaux, Cab Franc is a major red grape in the Loire Valley and is growing more popular in California and Washington state.

Merlot, once dissed by a casual comment in a film causing a surprising dip in U.S. sales, is now experiencing rising popularity.  Merlot has always been favored over Cab in right bank vineyards and is liked elsewhere as a varietal and blending component as in the Bordeaux Blend. 

Merlot is all ripe plums and black cherry, with a smooth texture and soft fruity finish.  Merlot can seem lower in tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, but it's just the plummy fruit masking the variety's firm tannin structure. These virtues make  Merlot a favorite varietal wine, especially with a wide range of foods. 

                                                     Wine Folly

Petit Verdot ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus getting the grape ripe has long been a problem in Bordeaux vineyards. With a warmer summer, like in northern California, New York's Long Island and South Africa, Petit Verdot is capable of spicy flavors and good structure.  Petit Verdot is making a modest comeback in Bordeaux.

Malbec -- This grape nearly disappeared from Bordeaux vineyards, but it found a second life in Argentina's Mendoza Valley. Ironically, because of its success in Mendoza, Malbec is experiencing a mini-renaissance in Bordeaux.  Malbec is the primary grape in the wines of Cahors, where it is known as Cot. 

Malbec is deeply colored and richly flavored with hints of ripe plums and floral notes, plus the occasional tobacco scent.

Together, these five grapes form a harmonious blend, of complexity, depth and length. Age forms a closer bond while not hiding the attributes of each variety. Oak helps this process along, softening the supporting tannins, allowing the fruit to develop and show through.

In addition to Bordeaux, look for variations of the Bordeaux Blend in New World wines from California, Washington state, Texas, New York state, Italy, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and Mexico, to name just those places with wines most often seen in U.S. markets.  

Traditionally, at least in the United States, Cabernet-based wines, like those that make up the Bordeaux Blend, have been paired with red meat, such as roasts and grilled steaks. Most of these wines, however, go with lots of different dishes, like pasta with red sauce and vegetarian entrees, especially ones prepared with mushrooms. 

The choices are only limited by your imagination. 

Next blog: Napa Series: Mountains and Valleys

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Benchmark Roses

In the wide world of wine, a crowded field of thousands of different types, there is no wine that has had more ups and downs than rose.

Perhaps it's because people can't get their heads around pink wines. Are they lightly tinted white wines, weak reds, or a refreshing fruity wine?

The confusion is understandable, because the market keeps shifting for pink wines. Roses are in and before you know it, they're out. And then the cycle begins again. 

                                                           

Pink wines are made in just about every place where wine is made, from Austria to New Zealand, Argentina to Italy and from California to South Africa. And while all  of these places have a well-defined style of rose, based on a specific grape or grapes, the benchmark for them all lies in the warmer southern part of France. 

Estimates are that about 30% of world pink wine production comes from France.  Specifically, age-worthy Cabernet Rose d'Anjou from the Loire Valley, full-bodied blends from Aix-en-Provence and fruit-sweet dry Tavel from the southern Rhone Valley. 

Elsewhere in the wine world, pink wines are often an after thought.  What to do with a red variety in its third or fourth leaf that is still not mature enough for a saleable red wine?  Maybe squeeze a little profit out of the grapes by making a rose.  Or, take some of your Grenache or Gamay and make a rose to round out the line and provide an alternative for those visitors in the tasting room that cannot decide on white or red. 

No matter how it works out, few wine regions, except for France, dedicate all or most of their harvest to rose wines.

Cabernet Rose d'Anjou is the preferred style of pink wine today in Anjou, replacing a sweet rose, called Rose d'Anjou, made from the undistinguished Grolleau grape. Improved vineyard practices for the Grolleau have given Rose d'Anjou wines new life.

Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon build Anjou roses structure, complexity and the ability to age and mature, not usually a characteristic of pink wines. Cabernet Rose d'Anjou are deeply colored, with a subtle herbaceousness and good balancing acidity. 

Aix-en-Provence Rose can be made from a blend of a wide range of red grapes, including Grenache, Cinsaut, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.  Provence roses are lightly colored, simple and fruity and ready to drink. A huge amount of pink wine comes out of this large Mediterranean region.

Tavel, is the noted all-rose appellation in the southern Rhone Valley, across the river from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of Grenache and Cinsaut grapes, gives Tavel roses a pleasant sweet impression, though the wine is always dry.  Tavels are light in color, fruity, with a good acid/fruit balance. 

Roses' Best Grape

There is a case to be made that there is really just one grape for pink wine and that would be Grenache (technically Grenache Noir since there is a white Grenache.) In Spain Garnacha (Grenache) is the grape of delightful Garnacha Rosado.

Grenache ready to pick

 One taste of a pink wine made from Grenache and you're hooked on the bright strawberry flavors, accented with earthy notes, sometimes with a subtle leathery note. Braced with good acidity, Grenache/Garnacha roses are great summer wines, especially with light foods, like cold ham off the bone and chicken salad. 

Of course, you can make a pink wine from any red variety.  In France, Cinsaut is a popular add-in, as is Merlot and occasionally Pinot Noir, although pinot is a challenge to get varietal character in a pink wine.  Zinfandel roses have had mixed success, with some tasting more like light red wines than pink wines.  Same is true for those pink wines made from other deeply colored grapes like Mourvedre, Malbec and Carignan.

Making Rose 

Today, there are two popular ways to make a rose wine: macerating dark-skin grapes, like Grenache, for 8 to 12 hours, and by blending red wine with white wine.  Maceration is the most common and generally makes the best wine.  Blending finished wines is usually preferred for basic pink wines, except for Rose Champagne, perhaps the best-known blended pink wine. 

And then there is a technique known as saignee, or "bleeding," where a small amount of juice is run off from crushed dark-skinned grapes. Co-fermenting red and white grapes is another method used to make pink wines.  Lastly, there is Vin Gris, that despite its gray name is a rose fermented like a white wine, except that the juice is not macerated.

Enjoying Rose

Roses are a good alternative wherever the call is for a white or light red wine. Grilled fish or vegetables, pork, chicken or turkey white meat are good choices as is any vegetarian dish.  The idea is to not get stuck in rules, but find what you like and then enjoy the combination. 

 

 Next blog: Bordeaux Blend

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Napa Series: Oak Knoll to Calistoga

                                       

There is a large sign along Highway 29 announcing to all travelers that they are passing through the famous Napa Valley.  The "Welcome to the Napa Valley" greeting, near Oakville, may be the most photographed sign in California, after the famous "Hollywood," sign on the hillside outside Los Angeles. 

By the time you've passed the Napa Valley sign, you are already about mid-way up the valley, past Oak Knoll and Yountville, with Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga to come. Geographically, Napa Carneros is separated from the main part of the valley. 

These names (and others) are the source of noted wines with specific pedigrees, identified by wine drinkers everywhere. For some, Napa Valley means California wine. It is hallowed ground for wine fans, wine tourists and day trippers who gladly put up with crowded tasting rooms and long waits at the valley's acclaimed  restaurants. 

What they are coming for is to taste Cabernet Sauvignon, the king of Napa Valley. And some of the anxious and thirsty will be looking for Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a smattering of Petite Verdot, Malbec, Syrah and Zinfandel.  If white wine is what they are after, there's Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with a small amount of Chenin Blanc. 

There are 16 American Viticultural Areas (AVA) in the Napa Valley, scattered along H-29 on the valley floor, the Silverado Trail and in the mountains.  The following six appellations, from south to north, on both sides of Highway 29 and along the Silverado Trail, are closely associated with Cabernet Sauvignon, the core of Napa red wine.

Oak Knoll District (AVA 2004) is the southern most part of the valley, between Yountville and the city of Napa.  Cool breezes off San Pablo Bay temper the growing conditions, ideal for Merlot, Chardonnay and Zinfandel.  The somewhat cumbersome name for this area is a compromise settlement of a complaint filed with the federal government by Oak Knoll Winery in Oregon. Noted wineries: Voss Vineyards, Hagafen Cellars, Trefethen Vineyards, Black Stallion Winery, Boyd Family Vineyard.

Yountville (AVA 1999) is a name that resonates with foodies hoping to score a reservation at the famous French Laundry, arguably America's best restaurant. Yountville is also the location of Dominus, owned by the proprietor of Ch. Petrus, one of Bordeaux's most celebrated wines, as well as the home of Domaine Chandon, the U.S. outpost of Champagne's Moet & Chandon.  Wineries: Kapcsandy Family Vineyard, Hoopes Family Vineyard, Grgich Hills Estate, Ad Vivum, Monticello Vineyards, Rocca Family Vineyards.

Oakville (AVA 1993) is known for famous vineyards like ToKalon and noted "cult" wines like Harlan and Screaming Eagle. For those who remember back to the original cult cabernets, there's Opus One. A variable wind off the bay keeps Oakville cool, adding a delicate dimension to the wines.  Wineries: Robert Mondavi, Far Niente, Groth, Rudd, Peter Michael, Dalla Valle.

Rutherford (AVA 1993) is on land formerly known as the Rancho Caymus land grant.  The collection of famous Rutherford vineyards lends an authenticity to Napa Valley.  To name just a few, there's Beaulieu 1 and 2, Bella Oaks and Inglenook.  Slightly warmer than Oakville, Rutherford red wines have an attractive ripeness balanced with crisp acidity. More Rutherford wineries: Staglin, Honig, Sequoia Grove, Caymus, Inglenook, Hall Wines.

St. Helena (AVA 1995) is one of the valley's more interesting appellations, since it would seem that people associate the name more with the town than the wines. Yet the areas soil diversity and moderate weather contribute to proper grape ripening in mountain bench and valley floor vineyards.  Wineries: Beringer, Rombauer, Crocker & Starr, Corison. Hall Wines, Spottswoode.

Calistoga (AVA 2009), in the summer, is hotter than just about any place in the Napa Valley.  Fortunately, it cools off at night, thanks to breezes wafting in from Knights Valley.  This diurnal shift makes Calistoga a cool place for Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.  Noted wineries include Chateau Montelena, Sterling Vineyards, Araujo Estate, Storybook Mountain Vineyards, Ballentine Vineyards. Tom Eddy Wines.

An aside.  One of the most unusual, and for a time controversial, wineries in California, is Sterling Vineyards. Perched atop a hill off Dunaweal Lane, between St. Helena and Calistoga, the Sterling winery reminds one of an orthodox monastery on a Greek isle.  The unusual design and location of the winery came from Peter Newton and Michael Stone, owners of the Sterling Paper Company. A visit to the winery required a ride on a cable car, like those at a ski resort. The fee, to ride the tram, which is partially returned with a wine purchase, was perhaps the first tasting fee by any winery in California. 

Next blog: Benchmark Roses

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Chianti

                                            

Some say that understanding the complexities of Chianti is understanding Italian red wine. Chianti is, after all, a complex region with a main geographical area,  multiple sub zones plus a classic zone to consider. 

Tuscany, perhaps Italy's most popular tourist destination, is where to find Chianti, although wine tourists mostly go to Tuscany for the red wine.  The meaning of Tuscany today is not only centered around wine, but also a long history of culture and art that includes the magnificent frescoes of Giotto and the sculptures of Michelangelo.

Chianti

Tuscany is the most important wine region in central Italy, with a number of famous wines -- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Bolgheri, Brunello di Montalcino. Grand and noble wines, but Chianti outshines them all in value, variety and according to some discerning palates, quality. 

The Chianti region, located between Florence and Siena, has a colorful history dating back to the 13th century.  Chianti consists of seven sub zones, of which, thanks to  Frescolbaldi, the best known to American wine consumers is Chianti Rufina (not to be confused with the Chianti producer Ruffino).

Sangiovese is the main grape for all Chianti.  Percentages vary, but the requirement calls for 70% in Chianti and 80% in Chianti Classico. That leaves a substantial percentage to be filled with other red grapes like Canaiolo and Colorino.  White varieties Trebbiano and Malvasia are also permitted although they are rarely used in Chianti Classico.

Credit for the allowance of white grapes in the Chianti blend goes to Baron Ricasoli who in 1872 suggested that the blend be based on Sangiovese for bouquet, with a little Canaiolo to soften the wine and Malvasia to lighten the wine for early drinking.  The baron's formula, more or less, is used to this day for standard Chianti.

The taste of Sangiovese is savory with hints of cherry and herbs, braced with good acidity and tannins.  Add any of the other grapes and you have a different wine, one with more structure and texture. Some Chiantis have Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot in the blend and they alter the taste of Sangiovese.

The bottom line is, while there are some good quality Chiantis, most of it is  ordinary fruity red wine, ready to drink.  And that's why the discerning buyer turns to Chianti Classico and Chianti Rufina.

Chianti Classico

At the heart of the Chianti region is the Chianti Classico zone, consisting of wineries grouped under the Chianti Classico Consorzio, identified by the Gallo Nero (black cockerel) neck label.  Since its founding in 1924, the Consorzio has set a standard for its wines that are more particular than standard Chianti. 

                              

Chianti Classico has three levels: Anatta (meaning "vintage" or the base level), Riserva, required by the Consorzio to be aged a minimum of 24 months, and Gran Selezione, aged a minimum of 30 months.  Gran Selezione represents only 5% of Chianti Classico. The classic zone was elevated to DOCG in 1987.

In 2021, the Consorzio approved 11 new UGAs or Additional Geographical Units (Unita Geografiche Aggiuntive).  UGA are sub regions or special growing zones, such as Greve, Castelnuovo and Radda, but they are not a single vineyard designation.  For now, UGAs will be allowed only on Gran Selezione wines.

Chianti Rufina

As far back as the early 18th century, Chianti Rufina was producing quality wine, based on Sangiovese.  The smallest of the seven sub zones, Chianti Rufina is best represented in the export market by Frescobaldi. 

One of the most noteworthy estates in Rufina is Pomino, owned by Frescobaldi.  Pomino is primarily a Chardonnay, with its own DOC, although there is also a Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc blend.  A rarity for Tuscany is Pomino Pinot Nero. 

Prices for a bottle of current vintage Chianti or Chianti Classico range from $20 to $41.  Chianti is the least expensive and Chianti Classico, especially Gran Selezione are generally more expensive and can cost $40 or more. 

Here are a few reliable Chianti producers: Fontodi, Castello di Volpaia, Villa Antinori, Ruffino, Isole e Olena, Frescobaldi, Baron Ricasoli.

An aside.  There is a trattoria in the Classic Zone (the town escapes) with an unusual "wine list."   In place of a printed list, or a cumbersome book, "Everest" had a side table with a few dozen bottles of Chianti Classico. Select one or more bottles, carry the wine to your table and someone will come by and pull the cork(s).  All wines were the same price and someone on the staff could fill you in on the particulars of your chosen wine.  What could be simpler and less intimidating and why do we not see this kind of non-pretentious wine program at restaurants in this country?

Next blog: Napa Valley Series: Oak Knoll to Calistoga

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