Chablis: the Other White Burgundy

   

Chablis is unique in French wine. The celebrated Burgundian white wine district is officially part of the region of Burgundy, yet, curiously, it is not geographically connected to the Burgundy region. 

Does that mean Chablis is a different wine than white Burgundy? Yes and no.  Both Bourgogne blanc and Chablis are made exclusively from Chardonnay.  At one time, Aligote, a white grape related to Chardonnay, was used in Burgundy, but now while it is still grown in parts of the Cote d'Or, Aligote is not in Chablis.

Chablis and the Cote d'Or are separated by about 60 miles in central France, thus their unique terroirs are influenced by slightly different conditions.  Chablis is, in fact, much closer to Champagne, than it is to the Cote d'Or.   

And there is another important (and controversial) difference.  Opinions differ among Chablis winemakers about whether Chablis should come in contact with oak at any point in the wine making process.

In the Cote d'Or, Chardonnay is seasoned with French oak.  However, Chablis has traditionally been made sans oak.  Sometime early in the 20th century, the question of oak or no oak surfaced in the Chablis wine community, and some winemakers began suggesting their Chablis be made more along the lines of white Burgundy.  For traditionalists, the very idea was heresy. 

Traditional Chablis has a mineral quality that the French describe as gout de pierre à fusil, or the taste of gun flint. That's an outdated descriptor, likely unknown to most Americans.  Recalling a childhood experience, though, might provide a better understanding of the term.   

During early childhood, it wasn't unusual for youngsters to be curious about the taste of small pebbles found near the house.  Taste is a primary way to learn the nature of things, so a child does what comes naturally and tastes the pebbles.  

As a curious child, if you've ever put a stone in your mouth, just to see what it tasted like, then you have some idea of what mineral means in wine terms.

Chablis by the Numbers 

Chablis is classified in four tiers.  At the top are the seven finest Grand Cru vineyards: Blanchots, Bougros, Grenouilles, Les Clos, Les Preuses, Valmur, Valdésir.  These valuable properties, totaling just 240 acres, are on a slope above the Serein River and the town of Chablis.  La Moutonne is the unofficial eighth Grand Cru.

Then come 40 named Premier Cru vineyards, of which only a few are seen today, especially outside Chablis. Numerous other smaller Premier Crus, not named on labels, may use an "umbrella name," such as Fourchaume (14 vineyards) and Vaillons (13 vineyards).

The last two ranks are Chablis and Petit Chablis. Both of these levels, but especially the so-called petits are lighter and short-lived, but are often good values, especially when compared to Chablis Premier Crus. 

 The Price of Chablis

Chablis can be an expensive habit, depending on your wine budget.  Prices for Petit Chablis and Chablis are all over the board.  Domaine Louis Michel Petit Chablis is $30, but for $10 more, there's Dom. Samuel Billand Chablis and Dom. William Fevre Chablis, the latter a reliable producer.

Premier Cru (often seen as 1er Cru) Chablis prices jump $10-$20 or more for these two wines: Dom. Louis Michel 1er Cru, $50 and Dom. Sequinot-Bordel 1er Cru, $45. 

Because of their quality and limited number, Grand Cru Chablis prices are at least double Premier Cru.  Here are three sought after Grand Crus: Dom. Servin Grand Cru Pruses, $90; Dom. Louis Michel Grand Cru Vaudesir, $100; Dom. Christian Moreau Les Clos, $150.

Chablis aficionados contend that if you want good Chablis character, without paying a premium for Grand Cru Chablis, then Premier Cru is the way to go. 

Find the Chablis that fits with your budget and appeals to your taste, pair the wine with some fresh oysters, then relax and ease into summer. 

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