The Wines of Santa Barbara County

    

Californians have a friendly disagreement about which part of their state is the "real" California: Northern California or Southern California? However, the Golden State is too big and diverse for an honest answer.  

The dispute does pose a similar question among wine people. Where in California can you find the real or best Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Syrah? 

Top choices in the north are multiple places in Sonoma County and in Napa-Carneros, while in the south, the clearest expressions of the three varietals are in Santa Barbara County.

While it can be fun, playing the "best" game is impossible. Geography is one limiting factor, and then there's stylistic variations defined by terroir differences. Bottom line, though, it may come down to personal preferences for one region or another, or the winemaker's approach. 

In the past, I've examined various wine region in Northern California, so this post will focus on Santa Barbara County and its unique Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.  

There are seven American Viticultural Appellations (AVA) in Santa Barbara County. Here's a capsule look at each AVA, with the key wines. The year the AVA was granted is in parenthesis.

Santa Maria Valley AVA (1981), east and south of the city of Santa Maria, is an ideal spot for growing excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. The growing season is long and cool, tempered by the nearby ocean. It's an ideal environment for varieties like Pinot Noir. Essential pinot flavors like black cherry and plum develop nicely here.  

Santa Maria Valley AVA boasts a long list of noteworthy wineries: Byron Vineyard & Winery, Au Bon Climat, Foxen Vineyard & Winery, Qupé, Rancho Sisquoc.  Many of them, like Au Bon Climat, get their grapes from Bien Nacido Vineyards.

Santa Ynez Valley AVA (1983) has the most wineries in Santa Barbara County.  Chardonnay does well in the cooler western part of the valley, thanks to marine fog through a gap in the western hills. Further east, in the warmest part, Rhone varieties, like Syrah, are favored. Wineries: Brander Vineyard, Roblar Winery & Vineyards.

Santa Rita Hills AVA (2001) is a large sub appellation between Lompoc and Buellton. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most planted grapes. Wineries include Sanford Winery & Vineyards and Babcock Winery & Vineyards. 

In 2006, a claim by Chile's Vina Santa Rita that the Santa Rita Hills AVA was causing market confusion, prompted a name change to Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries and vineyards in the area were featured in the 2004 film "Sideways." 

Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA (2009) farms vineyards up to 3,000 ft., in the northeast corner of the appellation. Only a few wineries, including Happy Canyon Vineyard and Grassini Family Vineyards, are making Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese.

Ballard Canyon AVA (2013), east of Happy Canyon, benefits from morning fog that can cause a 45F diurnal shift in the temperature, for slow ripening of Syrah and Grenache, in the loamy, limestone soils. Wineries: Stolpman Vineyards, Beckman Vineyards.

Los Olivos District AVA (2016) is east of Ballard Canyon, near the Danish-style city of Solvang. The district, with 12 wineries and 47 vineyards, is on a broad, flat plain.  Best varieties here are Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone grapes. 

Alisos Canyon AVA (2020) is the latest Santa Barbara AVA, with one winery, Dovecote Estate. The small AVA, 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean, is known for Syrah, Grenache and other Rhone varieties, that ripen well in the warm canyon climate. 

The AVA concept was initiated by the federal government in the 1980s, as an American version of the French Appellation d'Origine Controlée (AOC), drafted in the 1930s. While the two systems share similarities, the American system is only geographical and does not include rules on viticulture and wine making. And, unlike AOC, the AVA designation does not appear on a wine label. These differences are critical when weighing the value of label information at the point of purchase.

There is a wine for every taste in Santa Barbara County. The moderate climate is ideal for distinctive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as fruit-driven Rhone varieties. 

Freepik photo 

 

Next post: St. Emilion

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com