Essential Wine Books

     

Collectors are a passionate lot.  They want to know everything there is to know about their passion, from  major points to the finest detail.  They believe if you're going to do something, then do it right. 

Wine collectors are true believers when it comes to amassing a collection.  Passionate to a point about the wines in their collection, they devote considerable time and energy to gathering knowledge about the history and background of  each bottle of wine.   

Most collectors find that the devotion and time spent is justified.   Others think the passion is just a little too precious.

Gathering knowledge requires tools and for the wine collector that means an adequate wine book library.  "Webster's New World" dictionary defines library as "any collection of  things (like wine) that is organized for a particular purpose."   The basic rule is that the first definition is the most suggested one.  

When you start collecting wine, you want to try everything.  I found the same approach to be true with wine books.  And, depending on your interests, that can be anywhere from two books to two hundred books.  

The size of my wine book collection, for example, has fluctuated over the years. Eventually, I settled on a small number of essential wine books that all wine drinkers should have in their wine book library, to include reference, history, geography and even the odd wine-based novel.

Depending on your taste in wine, some of the following 20 books may not fill your needs.  A search may be necessary as some of the books are out of print. The first book on the list is the essential one, while the book(s) in parenthesis are suggested for subject depth and perspective.

"Oxford Companion to Wine."  This is an authoritative A-Z reference with maps, photos and graphs. Now in its Fifth Edition, "The Oxford" is the one reference to have.  ("The New Frank Schoonmaker Encyclopedia of Wine" was the go-to wine reference before The Oxford.  The 1975 edition was revised by the late wine writer, Alexis Bespaloff.)

"American Wine"  is a well-written comprehensive look at the many wines of the United States, by wine writers Linda Murphy and Jancis Robinson, with the main focus on California, Washington, Oregon and New York.  ("The Wine Atlas of California," by Bob Thompson, includes a section on the Pacific Northwest and a Traveler's Guide. "The Wines of America," by Leon D. Adams, Fourth Edition, 1990, was first published in 1973 and may be the first comprehensive history and guide to the wines of the United States and Canada.)

"Oz  Clarke's Encyclopedia of Grapes."  Clarke is an erudite English actor/writer who happens to know something about wine.  His book covers in detail 17 "Classic Grapes," such as Chardonnay and Merlot, plus 15 "Major Grapes," and includes taste descriptions, food matches and more.  ("Terroir" is an analysis of the "role of geology, climate and culture in the making of French wines," by geologist James E. Wilson.)

"The Wine Atlas of France," by Hugh Johnson and Hubrecht Duijker, is one in the excellent series of wine atlases and traveler's guides.  It's a little dated but the essential information on the French wine regions is still relevant.  (The following books are good references on specific French wines: "World Encyclopedia of  Champagne & Sparkling Wine," THE book on all bubbly by Tom Stevenson; "The Wines and Domaines of France," Clive Coates MW; "The Finest Wines of Bordeaux," James Lawther MW.)  

"Wine Atlas of Australia & New Zealand," by James Halliday.  Halliday, is a winery owner in Victoria, and the most respected wine writer in Australia.  I've tasted wine with many expert wine people, none more experienced and accurate than James Halliday. 

                                                                       

"Vino Italiano," Joseph Bastianich & David Lynch. This is the definitive guide to the regional wines of Italy, with the added bonus of wine-pairing recipes from Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali, plus a collection of delightful anecdotes by Joseph Bastianich.  ("Vino," by Burton Anderson, the book on Italian wine to have, before Vino Italiano and still a useful guide.)

"The New Spain," John Radford.  An authoritative reference by a Spanish wine specialist.  ("The Finest Wines of Rioja and Northwest Spain," an informative collaboration by three Spanish wine writers.)

"The Atlas of German Wines and Traveler's Guide," Hugh Johnson, one of the world's most experienced and prolific wine writers.  ("The Finest Wines of Germany," Stephan Reinhardt)

"Vintage: The Story of Wine," a fascinating history of wine by the well informed Hugh Johnson. ("How to Taste," a compendium of tasting tactics by British wine writer, Jancis Robinson.  Her approach is orderly with short introductions to major categories, followed by the characteristics of white wines, red wines and sparkling wines, or "fizz," as the Brits call sparkling wine.) 

Note: "The Finest Wines" books is a series of compact references, authored by experts in their respective areas. 

There are hundreds, possibly thousands, of English language books on the subject of wine.  For the 20 books mentioned above, as well as other titles, check:  Barnes & Noble, your local library, wine publications, used book stores, yard sales, wine shops, and suggestions from people you know who are friends of wine.  

 

More on AI & Wine: The hottest topic today in technology is the pros and cons of artificial intelligence.  What is the relationship of AI and wine now and in the future and how will it affect wine production and consumption?  A part of the answer is in this latest entry on AI and wine:

Global Data Ai Palette has analyzed and isolated six data points, out of thousands of niche flavors and ingredients, using AI to discover and grow consumer products in the wine and spirits field.  Flavors were identified for each of the six key markets, with Valencia Orange identified for the United States.  According to Ai Palette, Valencia Orange, which also includes Cara Cara, navel and blood oranges, is growing in demand in wines, spirits and ciders.

My question: Wouldn't it be more intellectually satisfying for a scientist, rather than AI, to discover and develop the niche flavors we look for in wine?

 

Next post: The Return of Chenin Blanc  

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Monterey

 

Few California wine regions have a mixed history as Monterey.  In the early 1970s, some Monterey wines were said to have the dreaded "veggies."  The distasteful characteristic, mostly in red wine, was alleged to have been from planting wine grapes in the northern Salinas Valley, which was better known then for lettuce than grapes. 

The miscalculation forced one major winery to mount an image redo.  And another winery was rumored to have poured a few tanks of suspect Monterey red wine, with the veggies, down the drain, to avoid damaging the winery's growing reputation for quality moderately-priced wine.

That was  then. Today, Monterey County is home to distinctive Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Chalone, terroir-driven Cabernet Sauvignon from Carmel Valley, and Chardonnay and Riesling from southern Arroyo Seco. 

For the wine consumer curious about the appellation and its wines, Monterey can be confusing.  Most of the county's American Viticultural Areas come under the Central Coast AVA, a sprawling area that stretches from San Francisco to Los Angeles.  

Within the Central Coast AVA, is the smaller Monterey AVA, covering most of the county.  The exception is Carmel Valley AVA that, for some reason, comes under the Central Coast AVA.  Monterey AVA has five specific sub-appellations: Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands, San Bernabe, plus the lesser known Hames Valley and San Lucas. 

An aside. One of the more interesting stories in Monterey viticulture is San Bernabe, at 13,000 acres, the largest contiguous vineyard in the world. Managing the layout of such a massive vineyard presented a number of problems for its designer.  

When I visited San Bernabe in the mid-2000s, the owner, Delicato, was grappling with the challenge of picking simultaneously in multiple rows.  

San Bernabe's vineyard manager took me to a spot in the vineyard where the problem had occurred. Looking to increase productivity, the vineyard crew  suggested picking grapes simultaneously in multiple parallel rows, with a special hybrid machine harvester, they would design and cobble together, to be pulled by a tractor. 

According to the vineyard manager, the monster harvester rumbled and rattled down the rows, until it got to the end and stopped. The unwieldy machine couldn't be turned around and then lined up for the next pass, because there wasn't enough space between the vineyard and a row of neighboring vines that had been planted at a right angle to the harvester had traversed.   

Pointing to a rusting pile of junk, laying useless at the end of the vine rows, the vineyard manager looked at me and just shook his head.

Monterey has more than 50 wine grapes in hundreds of vineyards, including San Bernabe.  In addition to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, Monterey County has an admirable reputation for Syrah, and other Rhone varieties.  Limited plantings of odd varieties not in the main stream, include Falanghina, Petit Manseng, Gruner Veltliner and Olonde (Grolleau). 

Lone cypress on 17 Mile Drive

Here are brief overviews of the four most significant wine regions in Monterey County.

Santa Lucia Highlands  is situated between the Salinas Valley and the Pacific Ocean. Vineyards up to 1,200 feet are moderated by fog and cool breezes drawn in from the ocean by warm air rising from the valley floor.  Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay are the main grapes in the highlands. On the valley floor, lettuces, bell peppers, tomatoes and other row crops have earned the valley's nickname as "California's Salad Bowl."  

Chalone, a tiny appellation in the eastern Gavilan Mountains, pioneered the growing of Pinot Noir in the county on limestone soil.  Although grapes were grown near the Pinnacles National Monument early in the 20th century, Richard Graff planted Pinot Noir at nearby Chalone in 1960, later adding Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc. The other area winery is Michaud Vineyard.

Arroyo Seco, the Spanish for "dry stream," is at the southern end of the Salinas Valley.  For many years, Jekel Vineyards worked to convince wine consumers that this warm part of the county is right for Chardonnay and Riesling, two varieties that define the area.  A few growers, challenging conventional wisdom, continue to work what little Cabernet Sauvignon there is in the arroyo.

Carmel Valley is a western enclave isolated from Monterey's other wine areas by surrounding low hills. The opening to the valley is close to Carmel village, with its collection of upscale shops and restaurants.  Nearby is Monterey town and the scenic ocean side 17 Mile Drive. Carmel's wine scene is geared to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from a handful of small wineries like Bernardus, Talbott and Galante.  

There is so much more to learn about the wine side of Monterey, available in the books on California wine mentioned in next week's post about books that should be in every wine fanslibrary. 

 

AI & Wine:  The April 25 post about the impact of AI on wine drew some reader responses. I believe the association of AI and wine is important, so in the future, when I read a reference to AI and wine, I'll add it  at the end of that week's posting.  

The results of a survey by the UK e-commerce platform Drinks found that 44% of those surveyed would accept a wine recommendation made by artificial intelligence.  And I wonder if the 44% is a trend that will soon fade like most trends,  or is it a disturbing harbinger of the future of wine consumption.  I hope it's just a trend. 

Next post: Essential Wine Books

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