Spicy Traminer

             

Gewürztraminer, the wine you hate to love, is primed to make your summer more pleasurable.

Loving a fruity white wine with a sweet impression, when you've had the dry wine gospel preached to you for ages, is not easy.  Especially when you try to pronounce the name of that fruity white wine, your tongue gets twisted in a knot.    

Try this: Geh-vairtz-tra-mee-ner. Or, Gah-verts-tra-mener.  

Gewürztraminer (Gewürz) is an example of German word crunching where two words are jammed together to form one word.  The German word for "spice" is "gewürz" and "Traminer" is a white grape with a rosy hue.   The two little dots over the "ü" is an umlaut, a diacritical mark placed over a vowel to indicate a change in sound. 

Rose (especially a heady Old English rose) and litchi (or lychee) are the two words used most often to describe the aroma and taste of a Gewürz.  Most Americans can tell a rose when they smell one, but few Americans know the exotic scent of litchi, a Chinese evergreen. 

Depending on where the grape is grown, the perfume of a Gewürztraminer might also have traces of black tea, orange blossom, honeysuckle and sweet spice, like cinnamon. Oddly, I read one description of Gewürz as smelling like face creme.  

There are more than 25 synonyms for Gewürztraminer, most variations of the Traminer grape name or a form of the mottled pink hue of a ripe Traminer grape.  But Gewürztraminers are not macerated on the skins, so leeching a pink color is not an issue. 

 Worldwide Gewürztraminer 

Years ago, the Traminer grape was common in the German Rheinpfalz, where it is called Clevner.  In the tangled and confusing world of wine grape origins, the Traminer grape was first planted, not in Germany, but the Alto-Adige village of Tramin, Italy.  From northern Italy, the grape was carried to other wine regions.

Today, Gewürz is found, in small vineyard allocations, throughout Europe, mainly in cooler locations like northern Italy, Austria, Hungary and coastal Spain.  Torres, in the Penedes region of eastern Spain, makes Viña Esmeralda, one of Europe's best known Gewürztraminers, outside Alsace.

Gewürztraminer is suited to the terroir of Alsace, on the west side of the Rhein river, across from the German Rheinland.  In the cool river climate, Gewürztraminer hits all the stylistic steps, from dry, to sparkling, late harvest and sweet botrytized wines. 

Historically, Alsatian Gewürz were drier than their German cousins.  But, slowly over the years, residual sweetness in all Alsace white wines crept up, until today, the difference is more closely defined as German Gewürz being fruitier and flowery, while French Gewürz tends to show more spice, bracing acidity, and perhaps, a trace of black pepper. 

There's also some interest for Gewürztraminer in Australia and New Zealand.  And the variety does well in cool parts of California, most notably the  Anderson Valley, in Mendocino County.  

Cool ocean air and occasional fog encourage wineries such as Navarro, Husch and Greenwood Ridge to make award-winning dry, semi-dry and dessert Gewürztraminers, with precise sugar/acid balance and luscious varietal flavors. 

Gewurztraminer at Table

In Alsace there are a handful of traditional foods that pair nicely with a lightly chilled Gewürztraminer, such as onion tart, duck paté, smoked fish and the flavorful French Munster cheese, or the milder American Muenster, with a nutty and buttery flavor.

Gewürztraminer is also nicely matched with Asian foods, especially those flavored with coriander, lemon grass and coconut.  A bowl of Thai Yellow or Massaman Curry and a glass of medium-dry Gewürz ticks all the boxes for me. 

 

Next post: Touring In Tuscany

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Chablis: the Other White Burgundy

   

Chablis is unique in French wine. The celebrated Burgundian white wine district is officially part of the region of Burgundy, yet, curiously, it is not geographically connected to the Burgundy region. 

Does that mean Chablis is a different wine than white Burgundy? Yes and no.  Both Bourgogne blanc and Chablis are made exclusively from Chardonnay.  At one time, Aligote, a white grape related to Chardonnay, was used in Burgundy, but now while it is still grown in parts of the Cote d'Or, Aligote is not in Chablis.

Chablis and the Cote d'Or are separated by about 60 miles in central France, thus their unique terroirs are influenced by slightly different conditions.  Chablis is, in fact, much closer to Champagne, than it is to the Cote d'Or.   

And there is another important (and controversial) difference.  Opinions differ among Chablis winemakers about whether Chablis should come in contact with oak at any point in the wine making process.

In the Cote d'Or, Chardonnay is seasoned with French oak.  However, Chablis has traditionally been made sans oak.  Sometime early in the 20th century, the question of oak or no oak surfaced in the Chablis wine community, and some winemakers began suggesting their Chablis be made more along the lines of white Burgundy.  For traditionalists, the very idea was heresy. 

Traditional Chablis has a mineral quality that the French describe as gout de pierre à fusil, or the taste of gun flint. That's an outdated descriptor, likely unknown to most Americans.  Recalling a childhood experience, though, might provide a better understanding of the term.   

During early childhood, it wasn't unusual for youngsters to be curious about the taste of small pebbles found near the house.  Taste is a primary way to learn the nature of things, so a child does what comes naturally and tastes the pebbles.  

As a curious child, if you've ever put a stone in your mouth, just to see what it tasted like, then you have some idea of what mineral means in wine terms.

Chablis by the Numbers 

Chablis is classified in four tiers.  At the top are the seven finest Grand Cru vineyards: Blanchots, Bougros, Grenouilles, Les Clos, Les Preuses, Valmur, Valdésir.  These valuable properties, totaling just 240 acres, are on a slope above the Serein River and the town of Chablis.  La Moutonne is the unofficial eighth Grand Cru.

Then come 40 named Premier Cru vineyards, of which only a few are seen today, especially outside Chablis. Numerous other smaller Premier Crus, not named on labels, may use an "umbrella name," such as Fourchaume (14 vineyards) and Vaillons (13 vineyards).

The last two ranks are Chablis and Petit Chablis. Both of these levels, but especially the so-called petits are lighter and short-lived, but are often good values, especially when compared to Chablis Premier Crus. 

 The Price of Chablis

Chablis can be an expensive habit, depending on your wine budget.  Prices for Petit Chablis and Chablis are all over the board.  Domaine Louis Michel Petit Chablis is $30, but for $10 more, there's Dom. Samuel Billand Chablis and Dom. William Fevre Chablis, the latter a reliable producer.

Premier Cru (often seen as 1er Cru) Chablis prices jump $10-$20 or more for these two wines: Dom. Louis Michel 1er Cru, $50 and Dom. Sequinot-Bordel 1er Cru, $45. 

Because of their quality and limited number, Grand Cru Chablis prices are at least double Premier Cru.  Here are three sought after Grand Crus: Dom. Servin Grand Cru Pruses, $90; Dom. Louis Michel Grand Cru Vaudesir, $100; Dom. Christian Moreau Les Clos, $150.

Chablis aficionados contend that if you want good Chablis character, without paying a premium for Grand Cru Chablis, then Premier Cru is the way to go. 

Find the Chablis that fits with your budget and appeals to your taste, pair the wine with some fresh oysters, then relax and ease into summer. 

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Sonoma v. Napa

   

There is a special dynamic that develops in families with multiple siblings, where one son or daughter excels over the others.  It's a common occurrence, across a broad spectrum of life and business. 

Same with wine. Certain circumstances cause one wine region to leap ahead of another in popularity.  The recognition and rise in popularity of a region or a specific wine might be due to the natural environment, human skill and ingenuity, or both.

A growing environment for wine grapes is complex and is often described by the French term terroir. There are numerous factors such as climate and soil composition that define the terroir of a specific site or region.   

Sonoma County and Napa Valley are only a few miles apart in northern California, and both places are known for world class Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  But their terroirs are different.

Yet, in the opinion of many wine professionals and consumers, Napa Valley excels in Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma is better known for Pinot Noir.  There are, of course, exceptions like Cabernet from Sonoma's Alexander Valley and Pinot Noir from Napa Carneros.  

So, let's take a closer look at a few general differences, beginning with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Napa Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a collection of relatively small sub-areas such as Oakville, Stags Leap, Atlas Peak, Spring Mountain and Rutherford, with subtle growing differences, like soil variations and climate.  The differences range from the cooler south valley near the city of Napa to the warmer northern vineyards around the town of Calistoga. 

Sonoma County is more diverse, with the best known Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley.  Climate and soil variations are felt across a wide spectrum, from warmer Sonoma Valley, to cooler pockets in Green Valley and near the Russian River.

Merlot is a different animal, mainly for its relatively mild softer flavors, compared to the roughness of Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The coolest soils in Sonoma County, forming an ideal medium for Merlot, are in Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Mountain and Bennett Valley, with micro-climate pockets throughout the county.  Producers such as Matanzas Creek, in Bennett Valley, draw maximum varietal fruit and brisk acidity from the valley soils.

It's a wonder Merlot ripens to plum and dark cherry flavors in the Napa Valley.  But the popular varietal does good in cooler south valley vineyards along the Napa River, Napa-Carneros, Wild Horse Valley and Coombsville.

Chardonnay grows best in chalk, limestone and clay soils but it will ripen in a variety of mediums and climates, like the Oakville District, Napa and Sonoma Carneros, Sonoma Coast and the small Chalk Hill and Green Valley sub zones in Russian River Valley. 

Terroir is vital for good varietal  character in Chardonnay.  Diverse areas in Napa and Sonoma can turn out a range of Chardonnay styles, from light and mineral, to warm and tropical.  The key is to root vines in soils where they will produce lean, steely/mineral styles or pineapple, mango and honey.

Pinot Noir has been described as the "heartbreak grape," because it's the most ephemeral wine grape, difficult to grow and make.  The taste of pinot varies from light and sensual or dark and heavy with a deep almost black color and full black cherry accents.  

But reaching for more specifics to describe the taste of Pinot Noir can be a fool's errand because there are many different styles, most of them suggesting descriptors like black cherry, leather and mushrooms.  But these are just descriptions and not what Pinot Noir tastes like. 

For many fans of California Pinot Noir, Sonoma County's Russian River Valley and Carneros are considered prime sites for Pinot Noir.  Other California areas that get high marks for Pinot Noir are Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley in Mendocino County. 

As a broad general statement, Sonoma Coast Pinots are complex and savory and Russian River Pinot Noirs are fuller and darker than Carneros Pinots, with their raspberry and spicy accents.  Both Carneros and Russian River are cool climate areas, good for the development of bright acidity.

There are plenty of styles to choose.  Find a varietal, then a region a specific producer and decide if your taste is more aligned with Napa Valley or Sonoma County wines. 

                                                                                    -o0o- 

More on AI & Wine: The hottest topic today in technology is the pros and cons of artificial intelligence.  The question for wine consumers:  What is the relationship of AI and wine now and in the future and how will it affect wine production and consumption?  What follows is only part of the answer.

Various articles recently have reported on the advancements of AI in the vineyard, as well as applying AI to wine sales and marketing. And while those prospects are encouraging, there are a number of observers asking for caution, oversight and control.  

Danica Noble, an antitrust attorney with the Washington State Bar Association is calling for more AI oversight, not less.  In an article for "The Seattle Times," Noble says the U.S. Senate is considering a law that would "ban states' ability to regulate AI for the next 10 years. "  

Georgia Hall, a Bloomberg Opinion Columnist reported a warning from Wall Street firms about the rising risk of using AI for criminal purposes, including software hallucinations. 

According to Webster's, a hallucination is "the apparent perception of sights, sounds, etc., that are not actually present."  An AI hallucination is false, nonsensical information presented as factual.  

With all the talk about shrinking wine sales, the wine industry and wine consumers may now be faced with a spate of possible AI hallucinations related to wine marketing material, wine tasting notes, wine articles and more.    

Next post:  Chablis: the Other White Burgundy 

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Northern Rhone Whites

 

France's northern Rhone Valley has a well deserved reputation for red wine.  The litany of Syrah based wines, like Cote Rotie, Hermitage, St. Joseph, is legendary. 

Wine grapes were growing in the Rhone valley as far back as before the spread of Christianity. Unearthed amphorae from the 1st century CE, show that wine was carried up river to Roman legions, and has been part of local culture ever since.  

Syrah, the only red grape allowed in the Northern Rhone, hangs precariously on vines rooted in the steep slopes along the Rhone river.  For many advocates of Syrah there is no better expression of the grape than the wine that comes from the northern Rhone.    

 Held in less esteem by the buying public are Rhone white wines, notably Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier.  Wine made from these three distinct varieties do not taste like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, and that may be why Rhone whites never scaled the popular heights of either of those white wines - except, maybe Viognier.  

Viognier

California wine in the late 1990s went through a mini-revolution when Viognier burst on the scene.  Long known in the northern Rhone as the aromatic grape of Condrieu, Viognier made a splash with wine drinkers looking for something new and different. 

Chàteau-Grillet, unique in its expression of Viognier, is one of few appellations owned by a single family and Grillet is one of France's smallest appellations, consisting of less than 10 acres.

The popularity of Viognier spread south in France to Languedoc and overseas to California, Virginia, Texas, South Africa and Australia.  South Australia's Yalumba became a specialist with a string of stylish Viogniers, while other Aussie wineries discovered Viognier was good blended with Shiraz. 

The largest planting of Viognier is in Languedoc, with California in second place.  The warm growing conditions in California is ideal for warmth loving Viognier.  The variety's floral and stone fruit aromas are maximized in that environment.

Viognier's heady aromatics and flavor of ripe peaches and apricots may strike a note of familiarity to lovers of  Albarino, the seafood friendly white wine from Spain's Galicia region.  

 And there is more than passing interest for Viognier in Virginia, New York, Oregon and British Columbia.

Marsanne, a northern Rhone original, is thought to have given birth to Roussanne, its natural blending partner.  The fact that Marsanne is an easier grape to grow than Roussanne has meant that Roussanne vines now out number Marsanne.  It's an economic decision since the two grapes are compatible.  

Limited plantings of Marsanne are found in the southern France regions of Languedoc and Roussillon.  Marsanne is the majority grape in such classic northern Rhone white wines as St. Joseph, Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage.  

 

                                             

Peachy flavors define young Marsanne.  With age, the transition is to honeysuckle over ripe apricots and peaches.  Be patient with Marsanne, because it sometimes goes through a dumb period where you wonder if there's a future for the wine. 

Roussanne, the aromatic blending partner with Marsanne, is slowly disappearing in the vineyards of the northern Rhone.  It still is an authorized grape in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, while Marsanne is not.  

The thing that eventually dropped Roussanne from favor was a difficulty in the vineyard.  Growers have a hard time getting it ripe and developing full flavors. Even new clones haven't helped, thus the conversion from Roussanne to Marsanne in many vineyards, except for prominent producers like Paul Jaboulet and the Perrin family.

Fruit wine makers say that pear is a challenging fruit for making a fruit wine.  Pear's  delicate flavors do not transfer easily from fruit to wine.  But pear is the primary descriptor of Roussanne.  When mature, Roussanne becomes slightly herbal and nutty.  It is this aged character that gives northern Rhone white wines refinement.  

Pricing Northern Rhone Whites 

Condrieu: prices for this northern Rhone white vary from $40 to $60.  Prices for Chateau-Grillet vary widely from $150 to $350.  Limited quantities of this desirable, expensive French Viognier make it to this country, so you have to shop around. Most U.S Viognier costs between $20 and $40. 

Make northern Rhone wines your next white wine purchase.

 

Next post: Sonoma County

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