A Cabernet Collection

     

Sometimes, a widely-planted grape variety, like Airen, is not the most popular in the area or country where it is planted.  The Spanish red grape Airen accounts for 20% of the country's vineyards, yet it lags well behind Tempranillo in popularity.

On the other hand, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted wine grape variety in the world, and it is also the most popular.  In the United States, Cab Sauv, as it's often called, is a stand out grape, ahead of Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc, in popularity.

There are some Cabernet names you might see on wine labels that look like Cabernet Sauvignon, but aren't, including: Cabernet Blanc, a Swiss hybrid; Cabernet Franc, a single varietal and a blending grape; Cabernet Severny, a Russian cold-hardy hybrid.

And, some noted wine grapes have dozens of synonyms or local names; Muscat Blanc racks up more than two dozen. But worldwide, Cabernet Sauvignon is known only by that name, although Petite Vidure, is a name some old-timers still use in Bordeaux for Cab Sauv. 

Getting your head around the popularity of Cabernet Sauvignon can be puzzling when you consider how difficult it is to love a young Cabernet Sauvignon.  Closed, ungenerous aromatics, tight flavors with hard tannin and shy fruit. Cab Sauv is a wine that tests the patience of even the most devoted fan of red wine.

But give Cabernet Sauvignon at least five years of bottle age (top end blends from Bordeaux's Médoc can take up to 10 years) and you have a different wine.  At 10 years the essentials begin to knit together forming a harmonious whole with black fruit accents, softer more approachable tannin, leafy notes and a balanced extended finish.

Mature Cab Sauv from Bordeaux, California, Washington state, Australia, as well as a handful of other select spots where the grape grows to maturity with a minimum of problems in the vineyard, has a certain elegance that earns it a place in your wine memory. 

The Rise of Cab Franc  

As noted above, Cabernet Franc shares a family connection with Cabernet Sauvignon.   In fact, the original Cabernet was likely Franc and not Sauvignon.  Records show that Cabernet Franc was already in St. Emilion long before the 18th century.  The right bank terroir was more hospitable to Franc, while Sauvignon did better in the Médoc. 

In the 1960s, plantings of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc were about even in Bordeaux.  By 2020, white varieties were a drag on the market, so during replanting, more Cab Sauv vines were planted than Cab Franc.   Even before the replanting, though, it was known that Cab Franc performed better in cooler St. Emilion soils, moving Cab Sauv on the right bank to third place behind Cab Franc and Merlot.

Cabernet Franc has more up front fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon and it's lighter in tannin with a distinctive hint of raspberry and a subtle herbaceous note, adding a level of complexity.  These attributes stand out in St. Emilion and Pomerol, where Cab Franc contributes more to the blend.

While it's hard to deny the great appeal of 60% Cab Franc in a St. Emilion like Ch. Cheval Blanc, fans of Cabernet Franc say the variety shines brightest in the Loire Valley sub-regions of  Chinon and Bourgueil. 

Bourgueil, made in two styles, can have a little Cab Sauv, but the wine mainly is all Cab Franc. The lightest style, is from gravel soils closest to the Loire river.  A more substantial version is reflective of the rocky soil further from the river.  

Chinon production is more varied than Bourgueil. This large area in the Touraine district makes a well-known Chenin Blanc, a little rosé and, of course, Cabernet Franc, lots of it.  Chinon comes in three styles: lighter, like Bourguel; a second more robust version; and a complex mineral-laced style. 

Elsewhere, look for lighter Cabernet Franc from Friuli in northern Italy, Australia and New Zealand. Varietal Cabernet Franc vies with Cab Sauv in California and is a major red in Washington state.

Summer is a good time for outdoor grilling of steak or a shank of lamb on a spit.   Add a mixed salad, or cole slaw, and a glass of Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Unsplash image 

 

Next post: Northern Rhone Whites

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Concentrate on Sauvignon & Franc -- how they differ and how they compliment esch other. 

Memories of Umbria

Orvieto

There is an attraction to Italy that's hard to put into words.  Countless visitors to the sun-washed Mediterranean country have tried to describe what draws them back time and again to Italy, but their attempts never seemed adequate enough. 

Umbria, the small landlocked region southeast of Tuscany, has that effect on me.  Ever since my first trip  to the small Umbrian town of Torigiano, as a wine judge, I've wanted to return as often as possible to poke around in every corner of Umbria.  

In the purist form, Umbria is Italy.  Cyril Ray, the eminent English wine writer of the 1960s, described Umbria as "typically or characteristically Italian...there is something of the essence of Italy in Umbria." 

My first trip to Umbria was to attend the Banco di Assaggio, a competition of Italian wines, held at the Lungarotti inn and restaurant, Tre Vaselle, in Torigiano.  It was a not-to-be-missed opportunity to taste Lungarotti wines, like Umbrian Sangiovese, Orvieto, Sagrantino as well as other Umbrian wines, where they are made. 

The Umbrian take on Sangiovese lacks the fame of the Chianti version from nearby Tuscany.  But Umbria has Sagrantino, a powerful red with a hint of exotic spice, and Umbria is home to the noteworthy Orvieto, a mineral laced white made from the Grechetto grape.

Various interpretations of all these Umbrian wines were pitted against other vini bianchi and vini rossi, judged by panels (called "juries" by the competition) of Italian and non-Italian wine journalists and Italian sommeliers.  

Judging sessions were long and tedious, with extended discussions over the merits of certain wines and if they deserved a medal or not.  Compromises were difficult , as the Italian judges frequently insisted on offering dogmatic opinions about Umbrian wines. 

The rewarding pauses from this rigidity were excursions into the Umbrian countryside to historic towns like Assisi.  My first experience at Assisi was with fellow judge, Martin Gersh, then the wine writer for "Vogue" magazine.  Gersh was a middle aged New Yorker who had never traveled to Europe or been in an airplane.   

Yet, he knew in detail every fabulous Giotto fresco in the lower church of the 13th century Basilica di San Francesco, in Assisi.   

                                                     

Armed with lira to feed the meters that give the viewer a very brief illumination of the frecoes, I listened to Martin describe each masterpiece with the enthusiasm of a young boy explaining a television cartoon to his father.   It seemed that little had changed in the Umbrian landscape, from the 15th century, as depicted in the religious paintings we saw from that time.  

Back at the tasting, my panel was tasked with evaluating  Sangioveses, like that in Lungarotti Torgiano Rubesco.  The Umbrian style is a standout for light cherry-herbal flavors and brisk acidity.  No doubt, the  Rubesco, with its high percentage of Sangiovese, was one of the wines we tasted. 

We also had three flights of red blends of  Sangiovese and Sagrantino, the latter a native Umbrian variety that adds firm tannins and a smoky note.  

Assisi had fed my spirit, but a visit to Orvieto promised to slake my thirst for Umbria's best known white wine.  An Umbrian original, Orvieto bianco takes its name from a town dominated by its duomo (cathedral), an imposing 14th century mix of Gothic and Romanesque architecture, featuring a stunning facade of white granite and black basalt stripes that wrap around the building.

Orvieto is justly famous for its white wine blend of Grechetto, Trebbiano, Verdella and Malvasia.  The best Orvieto has a high percentage of Grechetto, giving the wine richness, good structure and a lingering minerality.  

Lungarotti Torre de Giano is a blend of  Grechetto, Vermentino and Trebbiano.  Tuscany's Family Antinori, with its presence in Umbria, pairs Grechetto with Chardonnay in Cervaro della Sala. 

Umbrian cooking reflects the robust nature of the landscape, people and wine.  In "Vino Italiano," renown authority on Italian cuisine, Lidia Bastanich, offers up a recipe for the Umbrian dish, Spaghetti alla Norcina, a flavorful combination of pasta, olive oil, garlic, black truffles and anchovies, paired with a dry Orvieto.

With the competition completed and medals awarded, we judges moved to the lounge while the competition space was transformed back to the Tre Vaselle restaurant for the judges dinner.  Bastianich was not there to cook for us, but the Lungarotti chefs prepared a sumptuous meal, featuring black truffles from Umbria.    

Besides Tre Vaselle in Toriano, there are many other restaurants in Umbria to enjoy country cooking, like Buca di San Francisco in Assisi and Villa Cicona in Orvieto.   

 

Next post:  A Cabernet Collection 

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gail.com 

 

A Multitude of Muscats

     

There are many satisfying things about wine and the multitude of Muscats is one of them.  Muscats are among the oldest wine grapes on the planet, with at least one Muscat in every major wine region. 

Some familiar grape and wine names allude to "Muscat," even though they are not made from a Muscat variety, such as Muscadelle, blended with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc for Bordeaux sweet wines; Muscadet, a Loire Valley wine made from Melon de Bourgogne; and the Rhone sweetie, Muscat de Baumes-de-Venise. 

Muscat is one of few varieties that  taste of grapes.  All Muscats have what is best described as orange blossom and citrus zest note.  Muscats tend to be low in acidity, so the citrus tang can help balance the wine.  The variety Muscat Blanc sometimes has the elusive taste of rose petals, in the way they smell, not taste.  

Musqué, a grape off shot, is a French term meaning "muscat-like."  Years ago, a mini-trend in California promoted a Chardonnay mutation with a subtle musky character. 

Universally known simply as Muscat, the variety (and wine) have local names, such as Moscatel in Spain and Portugal, Moscato in Italy and Muscadel in South Africa.  Growers in Austria, Hungary and Bulgaria, grow a variety named Muscat Ottonel. 

But no matter how it's spelled, the versatile Muscat grape is used for dry, sweet, sparkling and fortified wine. There is a multitude of Muscats and at least 60 synonyms, many of them tied to a specific place, like Muscat d'Alsace.  At the top of the order are Muscat Blanc and Muscat of Alexandria, the two varieties responsible for most of the world's best Muscats.

Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, usually shortened to Muscat Blanc, is the finest of all Muscats for making a wine with clearly defined flavors.  As the name implies, Muscat Blanc has small round berries, packed with flavor.  Alsatian producers Zind-Humbrecht and Trimbach have Muscat wines made from Muscat Blanc. Here are a few more Muscat Blancs, some by other names:

France:  Muscat de Frontignan is the name used in parts of France and in South Africa; Muscat d'Alsace is a synonym for Muscat Blanc;  Muscat de Lunel, Languedoc; Muscat de Rivesaltes, Pyrenees Orientales and Aude; in California, Muscat Blanc is called Muscat Canelli; Muscardin, a red variety used in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 

Italy:  Moscato d'Asti, a sparkling wine made from Moscato Bianco in Piemonte; in Tuscany's Montalcino the name for Muscat Blanc is Moscadello.

California: Muscat of Hamburg is also called Black Hamburg; Orange Muscat, with distinctive orange blossom characteristics.  Popular examples of these two Muscats are made by California's Quady Winery.

Muscat of Alexandria, a commonly known variety in U.S. wine making,  doesn't quite have the refinement of Muscat Blanc, but it is widely grown in California, Australia, South Africa, Italy and many other places.  

Australia's outstanding Liqueur Muscat, a dark, rich and sweet fortified wine, is made from Muscat of Alexandria by Seppelt, Brown Brothers and McWilliams, among others. 

Pisco is a popular drink enjoyed throughout Chile and Peru.  Made from Muscat of Alexandria, Pisco  is distilled fermented grape juice.  Enjoyed as an on-the-rocks drink, Pisco is also the base for many cocktails, like Pisco Sour. 

                                                                         

Make your own Pisco Sour with Pisco Porton, Capel Pisco or Barsol Pisco , sweet and sour mix or freshly-squeezed lemon or lime juice, blended to your taste.

Muscats are loaded with character, similar to Gewürztraminer, making them challenging to pair with food. Dry Muscats, with spice and citrus, are a good choice with Indian food and lightly spiced Asian dishes, like Thai curries.  Sweeter Muscats, such as sparkling Muscat,  are best as dessert or matched with  fruit pies, fresh peaches and apricots. 

Pixabay photos

 

More on AI & Wine: The hottest topic today in technology is the pros and cons of artificial intelligence.  The question for AI and wine is: What is the relationship of AI and wine now and in the future and how will it affect wine production and consumption?  This is only part of the answer.

Recent articles in such varied publications as "New York Times" and "Morning Ag Clips" report that AI is being used by companies like John Deere to develop autonomous tractors.  Mason Earles, co-founder of AI-powered farm management platform Scout says AI can help grape growers with virus problems in vineyards and predicting yields.

The downside of the AI juggernaut in wine comes from Angelo Camillo, a business professor at Sonoma (California) State University.  Camillo warns that small family-owned wineries, which he says account for 80% of the wine business, do not understand AI technology and cannot afford AI investment and education.  Can an AI driven grape picking bot be far behind?

 

Next post:  Memories of Umbria

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

 

 

St. Emilion

      

St. Emilion is a city, resting on a plateau, built from the inside out. Beginning in the 8th century, workers began to dig a maze of caves for the limestone to erect the buildings that would rise over the years to become St. Emilion. Today, the city is one of the more attractive in an otherwise ordinary-looking Bordeaux.

For centuries, St. Emilion played an important role in the history of the region. The nearby port of Pierrefittte, on the Dordogne river, was used to ship local wine to England and it was a stop on the Path of St. James, for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 

St. Emilion's wine connection got a boost when early wineries discovered constant cool temperatures in the caves were ideal for wine storage. The discovery placed St. Emilion as the region's most important right bank city, equal to that of Bordeaux city. 

The value of the wine trade to the region's growth as a commerce hub continued to grow, thanks in large part to the administration of the trade by English merchants. 

In the early years of the 20th century, the Bordeaux wine trade was divided in two, with merchants in the city of Bordeaux concentrating on the wines of the Médoc, while across the Gironde estuary, in the right bank city of Libourne, tradesmen dealt in the wines of St. Emilion.

Then, as now, Cabernet Sauvignon, was the dominant red variety in Bordeaux.  But for St. Emilion, Merlot proved to be the more important grape, partnered with Cabernet Franc.  Meanwhile, Médoc chateaux preferred a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and then Cabernet Franc. 

There is a family resemblance in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. As part of the Bordeaux blend, with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, there is a harmonious synergy in a blend of the five varieties. Individually, though, Cabernet Sauvignon is more herbal, while Merlot is fruitier. 

Merlot based St. Emilion wines tread a fine line between fruit-forward black cherry and plum flavors, and vegetal dill notes. The shift to herbal is more noticeable in off years in St. Emilion. 

So why isn't Cab Sauv not the major grape of St. Emilion? The distance, after all, from vineyards in the Médoc to vineyards in St. Emilion is a mere 20 miles. 

The answer is terroir. In that short distance, the climate and soils are cool enough in St. Emilion, that Cabernet Sauvignon finds it difficult to ripen in most years. On the other hand, earlier-ripening Merlot is more comfortable in the cooler damp clay soils of St. Emilion.   

The relationship of climate and soil temperature seems at odds in both St. Emilion and the Médoc. Inland St. Emilion has a warmer continental climate and cooler soils, while the Médoc, not far from the ocean, is in a more maritime climate with warmer soils. 

Climate and soil, along with other factors, are prescribed by the French appellation system,  Appellation d'Origine Controlée (AOC), drafted in the 1930s. The American version of AOC, the American Viticultural Area (AVA), was initiated by the federal government in the 1980s. 

While the two systems share similarities, the American system is only geographical and does not include rules on viticulture and wine making. And, unlike AOC, the AVA designation does not appear on a wine label. These differences are critical when weighing the value of label information at the point of purchase.

The debate pitting Merlot and St. Emilion with Cabernet Sauvignon and Médoc has no winner since any result is a matter of personal preference. Pairing these wines with food is also a matter of personal choice. Here are a few suggestions that have worked, based on complimentary flavor components. 

Merlot's soft and fruity flavors work nicely with vegetable and meat patés and terrines, roast duck and cured ham, and curried meat dishes and cheesy entrees. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is an ideal choice with all roast and grilled meats, especially lamb, beef stews, roast turkey, grilled steak and dishes with mushrooms. 

If you caught the Merlot wave and want to sample a classic expression of the classic grape, look for St. Emilion on your next trip to the wine shop.  

Getty image 

 

Next post: A Multitude of Muscats

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com  

 

 

The Wines of Santa Barbara County

    

Californians have a friendly disagreement about which part of their state is the "real" California: Northern California or Southern California? However, the Golden State is too big and diverse for an honest answer.  

The dispute does pose a similar question among wine people. Where in California can you find the real or best Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Syrah? 

Top choices in the north are multiple places in Sonoma County and in Napa-Carneros, while in the south, the clearest expressions of the three varietals are in Santa Barbara County.

While it can be fun, playing the "best" game is impossible. Geography is one limiting factor, and then there's stylistic variations defined by terroir differences. Bottom line, though, it may come down to personal preferences for one region or another, or the winemaker's approach. 

In the past, I've examined various wine region in Northern California, so this post will focus on Santa Barbara County and its unique Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.  

There are seven American Viticultural Appellations (AVA) in Santa Barbara County. Here's a capsule look at each AVA, with the key wines. The year the AVA was granted is in parenthesis.

Santa Maria Valley AVA (1981), east and south of the city of Santa Maria, is an ideal spot for growing excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. The growing season is long and cool, tempered by the nearby ocean. It's an ideal environment for varieties like Pinot Noir. Essential pinot flavors like black cherry and plum develop nicely here.  

Santa Maria Valley AVA boasts a long list of noteworthy wineries: Byron Vineyard & Winery, Au Bon Climat, Foxen Vineyard & Winery, Qupé, Rancho Sisquoc.  Many of them, like Au Bon Climat, get their grapes from Bien Nacido Vineyards.

Santa Ynez Valley AVA (1983) has the most wineries in Santa Barbara County.  Chardonnay does well in the cooler western part of the valley, thanks to marine fog through a gap in the western hills. Further east, in the warmest part, Rhone varieties, like Syrah, are favored. Wineries: Brander Vineyard, Roblar Winery & Vineyards.

Santa Rita Hills AVA (2001) is a large sub appellation between Lompoc and Buellton. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most planted grapes. Wineries include Sanford Winery & Vineyards and Babcock Winery & Vineyards. 

In 2006, a claim by Chile's Vina Santa Rita that the Santa Rita Hills AVA was causing market confusion, prompted a name change to Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries and vineyards in the area were featured in the 2004 film "Sideways." 

Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA (2009) farms vineyards up to 3,000 ft., in the northeast corner of the appellation. Only a few wineries, including Happy Canyon Vineyard and Grassini Family Vineyards, are making Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese.

Ballard Canyon AVA (2013), east of Happy Canyon, benefits from morning fog that can cause a 45F diurnal shift in the temperature, for slow ripening of Syrah and Grenache, in the loamy, limestone soils. Wineries: Stolpman Vineyards, Beckman Vineyards.

Los Olivos District AVA (2016) is east of Ballard Canyon, near the Danish-style city of Solvang. The district, with 12 wineries and 47 vineyards, is on a broad, flat plain.  Best varieties here are Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone grapes. 

Alisos Canyon AVA (2020) is the latest Santa Barbara AVA, with one winery, Dovecote Estate. The small AVA, 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean, is known for Syrah, Grenache and other Rhone varieties, that ripen well in the warm canyon climate. 

The AVA concept was initiated by the federal government in the 1980s, as an American version of the French Appellation d'Origine Controlée (AOC), drafted in the 1930s. While the two systems share similarities, the American system is only geographical and does not include rules on viticulture and wine making. And, unlike AOC, the AVA designation does not appear on a wine label. These differences are critical when weighing the value of label information at the point of purchase.

There is a wine for every taste in Santa Barbara County. The moderate climate is ideal for distinctive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as fruit-driven Rhone varieties. 

Freepik photo 

 

Next post: St. Emilion

Leave a comment at boydvino707@gmail.com 

 

Return of the Blog

Readers, 

I have had on-going computer problems, which, hopefully are now resolved.

The blog originally scheduled for June 27, about the wines of Santa Barbara County, will now be posted on July 4.   

Gerald D. Boyd