The 3M's of Dessert Wines

Dessert wines, so-called stickies that most people agonize over,  don't easily fit into a meal or a wine event. 

Planning a meal with multiple wines, the challenge with dessert wine is its often too sweet as an aperitif or cocktail wine, although Port is a favorite aperitif wine in France.   And, with the possible exception of Sauternes and Barsac, dessert wines are usually not the best choice with the entree.  

Serve a rich, gooey chocolate dessert to an American and you have a happy person. But if you present a dessert wine with a sweet dessert, instead of as dessert, you're asking for a clash of the sugars.

It's a dilemma that some gladly embrace, while others just as gladly ignore.  There's no secret formula or strategy for deciding when to enjoy a dessert wine, but a good place to start is to consider Madeira, Marsala and Malaga, the 3Ms of dessert wine.  

Clinging terraced vineyards on Madeira

Madeira is an historic dessert wine, with an American connection.   Madeira comes from the Portuguese island of the same name, floating in the Atlantic Ocean, closer to North Africa than it is to Portugal. 

At the end of the 18th century, American colonists were importing enough Madeira, that the new country became a major export market for Madeira.  So popular was Madeira in the colonies, that it was used to toast the Declaration of Independence in 1776.

Madeira is a fortified wine.  That is, at a specified stage of fermentation, grape spirit  is added, arresting the fermentation, resulting in a sweet fortified wine with about 20% alcohol.  An examination of old records, though, reveals that Madeira likely started as a non-fortified wine. 

Production of Madeira is centered around artificial "aging" in an estufa, a special room, heated by an outside source or by warm water circulating through a network of pipes inside the room.  Barrels or lodge pipes (145-200 gals.) of Madeira are stored in the rooms, heating the wine until it attains a yellow-brown color and a nutty/prune aroma.  Modern estufagem use stainless steel tanks heated by an external system of hot-water pipes. 

At the top of the grape list for Madeira is Tinta Negra, a red-skinned variety that grows well in the island's fertile soils.  Additionally, there are five traditional white grapes used to make Madeira: Boal, Malvasia, Sercial, Terrantez and Verdelho.  A few American hybrids are grown for making local dry table wine. 

All, or some, of these grapes are used in the following styles, roughly from dry to sweet: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malmsey.  Special historic styles, like Rainwater, remain popular, while the latest types of Madeira include  an indication of age (10-Year), Colheita and Vintage. 

Marsala and a Sicilian snack

Marsala is an Italian fortified sweet wine, from the province of Trapani, on the island of Sicily.  Unlike the origin story of Madeira, Marsala owes its beginnings to one  Englishman, named Woodhouse, who thought the local wine made around Trapani was similar to Port and Madeira.  So, he fortified the wine and shipped it to England where Marsala became an instant hit with his fellow countrymen. 

The base wine for Marsala comes from Sicily's traditional white grapes: Grillo, Cataratto and Inzolia (See "Sicilian White Wine," July 19, 2024).  Marsala is made either by adding grape spirit, or by increasing the alcohol level through the infusion of mistela, a high-sugar grape juice, similar to Germany's süssreserve.   

 There are three main styles of Marsala: Fine, made with the addition of grape spirit, mistela and one year of cask aging;  Superiore, only mistela and two years of cask aging;   Vergine, a dry style with no mistela and at least five years of cask aging.

Marsala has suffered indignities in years past, including the addition of  "special flavorings such as chocolate, almonds and eggs.  After years of poor quality and shrinking sales, Marsala has turned the corner and the "special" styles of Madeira are no longer allowed to be labeled as DOC Madeira. 

General Jose de San Martin, hearing the tasting results

Malaga, is a Spanish dessert wine from the sun-drenched province of Andalucia. Malaga traces its history back to Moorish occupation of the land.  By the 18th century, with the Moors gone, Malaga was openly exported worldwide.  

At what may have been the first "blind" wine tasting, Argentine General San Martin asked his dinner guests to taste one of his favorite Mendoza wines against the reputation of a Malaga. The general's wine game reportedly boosted the reputation of Mendoza wine.

In Andalucia, Muscat of Alexandria and Pedro Ximenez ripen to high sugar levels, maxing out at 14% residual sugar. At one time, Malaga was made by drying the grapes in the sun on grass mats to concentrate the grape sugars. 

Today, the Malaga technique is to stop fermentation by adding a mistela, the sweet juice of  late-harvest sun-dried Moscatel, or by adjusting the sweetness with arrope, the process where unfermented grape juice is boiled down to 30% its normal volume, then added to the fermenting wine.  

Aged Malaga matures in oak barrels, arranged in a solera, similar to the fractional blending system popularized in the Sherry region of Andalucia.  Spanish law allows an impressive 16 types of Malaga, from Seco (dry) to Sweet, gradated on different levels of residual sugar.  Additionally, there is a golden Dorado (no arrope) and Negro (at least 15% arrope).

The taste of Malaga is defined by concentration and ripeness.  With Malaga, and Marsala more than Madeira, sweetness is secondary.  The essence of good Malaga is raisiny, with underlying spice and subtle caramel.  Sufficient acidity assures Malaga will be sweet but not cloying.

A small glass of Madeira, Marsala or Malaga, is a great way to end a meal.  Lighter and less filling than a heavy dessert, one of the 3M's of dessert wine satisfies the craving for something sweet, after a meal. 

 

Next post: Beaujolais and Respect

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"ABR"

A while ago, some wags thought they would do wine drinkers a service by coming up with the acronym, "ABC."  Suggesting an "Anything But Chardonnay" drinking strategy was not only presumptuous, it was silly. 

I say presumptuous, because there are a helluva lot of people that enjoy a glass of Chardonnay.  And, "ABC" is a silly ban since Chardonnay is planted in all the major wine regions.  Like it or not, Chardonnay is synonymous with white wine.

But the ABC miss-adventure also got me thinking:  Imagine trying to float the idea of "Anything But Riesling," in Germany.   Not likely, since 23% of Germany's 135 varieties are Riesling.  And, 67% of that 135 are white grapes, which means, that while Riesling still holds a firm place, there is a lot more to German white wine.  

Tongue-twisting grape names like Scheurebe, Roter Traminer, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris),  Müller-Thurgau and Gewurztraminer, are fairly common in Germany, but they don't have the caché of Riesling.  Lesser known are Trollinger and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc).

Roter Traminer is also known as Savagnin Rose, a non aromatic version of Gewürztraminer.  Savagnin, an ancient variety, is connected through genetic to many modern grapes, including Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.   And, Ruländer, the traditional German name for Pinot Gris, appears on wine labels, along with Grauburgunder.

Pfalz vineyard

Germany's Pfalz region is home to a number of these lesser known white grapes.  Pfalz sits atop the point where the Saar and Rhine rivers meet.  To the north is Nahe and Rheinhessen, with Baden in the southeast.  Many of these grapes are grown in Baden, Nahe and north along the Mosel. 

A Closer Look

Scheurebe is a recent arrival on the vineyard scene, first in the Rheinhessen, then the Pfalz.  Developed as a cross of Riesling and Bukettraube, itself an obscure cross.  The aim was to grow Scheu, its common name, as a replacement for the noble Riesling.  There were problems with getting Scheu to the desired ripeness, because slightly green, it made a harsh wine.  Scheurebe has good acidity, supporting black currant flavors and an edgy citrus note.

Pinot Gris is an adaptable grape that does quite well in Alsace, northern Italy as Pinot Grigio and Oregon, where its honeyed flavors are a good foil for Chardonnay. German Pinot Gris is popularly known as Ruländer and Grauburgunder.  The best examples offer ripe pear and nutty flavors with a subtle trace of wild honey. 

Pinot Blanc, called Weissburgunder in Germany, is a mutation of Pinot Gris, tracing its heritage to Burgundy's Pinot Noir.  An attractive feature of Pinot Blanc is its creamy texture.  That, plus good acidity and flavors that resemble ripe apples, put Pinot Blanc in the Chardonnay taste-alike category.

Müller-Thurgau was, for German wine, the great white hope.  While working in Switzerland,  Dr. Müller developed a cross of Riesling and Silvaner, naming the new grape for the canton of Thurgau in Switzerland.  Müller's idea was to combine the quality of Riesling with the reliability of Silvaner.  Despite a general lack of enthusiasm for the grape, M-T was widely planted, producing oceans of uninspiring  Liebfraumilch, Piesporter and others of the same ilk.  Today, when it is remembered, Müller-Thurgau, with its hint of Muscat, is mostly the backbone of what the Brits call "cheap and cheerful" wine.

Gewürztraminer

Gewürztraminer, an aromatic variant of Savagnin, has one of the most recognizable grape and wine aromas: exotic spices, lychee and perfumed roses.  Occasionally, GT is sometimes shown as Gewürz-Traminer, the perfumed variant of the Traminer grape. The German word "gewürz," when applied to the grape, means perfumed more than spice.  GT is grown throughout Germany and Europe. In 1973, the official grape name was altered, dropping the umlaut, in the French region of Alsace, across the Rhine river from Germany.

Trollinger likely came to Germany from northern Italy.  Historically, Trollinger and Roter Traminer trace a history in Wurttemberg, back to the 14th century.  Locals in this small region east of Baden, enjoy the light red wine produced from the red-skin grape.  

Riesling is a noble variety that displays its greatness as a dry, sweet or sparkling wine. But Riesling can be problematic to grow, so vintners turned to other white varieties, including crosses, to counter problems in the vineyard and the marketplace. Although efforts have been mixed, the result is a collection of wines, worth a try. 

Next post: The 3Ms of Dessert Wines

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The Douro

There are few wine regions, that once visited, leave an impression that stays with you, long after you return home.  For me, anywhere in Italy, South Africa's Western Cape and the starkly beautiful Douro Valley of northern Portugal, come readily to mind.

The Douro is a deep gash in the earth, carved over the millennia by a river that flows from the frontier with Spain, west  to the city of Oporto.  Before the Portuguese government damned the vital waterway, starting in 1968, to provide hydroelectricity, the river raced through the valley, moving barco rabelos, loaded with pipes of new Port wine to aging lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Oporto. 

                                                                                                                                                  Shutterstock

It must have been quite a sight.  Daring boatmen, balancing on the stern of a barco, one eye on the  precious Port, the other scanning the rocky walls that rose above the river, while manipulating a long rudder pole, keeping the cargo boat in the fast moving rapids and away from the rocks.  The men who worked those barcos, added the Portuguese word rabelo, or "fishtail," to describe the back and forth action of the steering pole in the water. 

Today, the few remaining barcos rabelos are kept around to impress the tourists, while the cargo and passengers move up and down the valley by rail. 

Up river, some 50 miles from Oporto, terraced vineyards stair step up the steep banks of the Douro, or are hidden in the narrow valleys, just off the river.  Large signs, visible from rail cars and the winding road between the tracks and the river, announce historic Port estates or quintas, like Sandeman, Croft, Dow, Fonseca and Ramos Pinto.  

A personal aside. Life in the Douro is peaceful and slow. On my first visit to Bom Retiro, the gentle slow-paced atmosphere of the quinta was a shock to my senses, coming from the fast-paced world outside the Douro.  

I was with Joao de Alemeda. We first met when Joao was with Ramos Pinto, owner of Bom Retiro.  As the director, Joao was a busy man, so he suggested the quiet of the quinta for our interview.  Although he had an office in Gaia, Bom Retiro was a spot for him to unwind and relax. 

Following a tour of the business end of the quinta, which included a look at one of the quinta's old lagers, a large trough made of slate, used by workers, shod in studded boots, to trod the grapes, we walked over to the old estate house, that once housed workers and company men up from Oporto.

We found a comfortable spot on the shaded porch of the main house, where I tried to finish the interview.  But, it was difficult to concentrate in the fading twilight, with the approaching evening slowly transforming the valley from light to dark, and the warm air shimmering with the buzz of insects. 

On that porch, in that secluded valley in Portugal, sipping an aged Tawny Port, while across the valley, a church bell counted out the evening hour, was a magical experience that has stayed with me all these years.

At every turn in the river, carved terraces hung precariously, following the contours of the steep banks.  I was told that more than one driver of a big yellow grader, carving a new terrace, lost his perspective, jumping to safety just before the huge machine plunged into the river.  In recent years, some quintas, replanting or were putting in a new vineyard, decided on vertical rows that look like green stripes disappearing over the top of the hill.

Grape growing in the Douro is labor-intensive, so having the vineyards close to the quinta was important.  For years, few growers could identify what grapes were in their vineyards, which was understandable as more than 80 varieties are authorized in the production of Port.  

Obviously, something had to be done, so in the 1970s, Cockburn and Ramos Pinto narrowed the extensive list down to five main grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Tinto Cao.  Those five varieties have become the accepted standard, with a handful of other grapes favored by some Port houses.

                                                                                         Wine Folly

There are two basic types of Port, plus a bewildering range of styles that demand detailed definitions to better understand the differences, sometimes subtle, between the styles of wood and bottle-aged Ports.  

Briefly, Ruby and Tawny are the two styles in the wood Port category.  Bottle-aged Port includes a string of styles like Vintage, Single Quinta Vintage, Crusted, LBV and Garrafeira.  And there's Colheita and Aged Tawny. 

A Port house has its own style, made from a proprietary combination of the five main grapes.  And, each has something unique to contribute to the house style. What is important to the consumer is which house style they find appealing.  That, of course, means that you need to sample a number of Ruby, aged Tawny Ports or Vintage to find your favorite.  

More on the pleasures of Port is scheduled for a post in the near future. 

Next post:  ABR

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Worldwide Merlot

For some fans of red wine, Cabernet Sauvignon is the complete package: aromatics, structure, flavor profile, tannin, acidity, and most of all, the promise of long life.  Others would happily apply those attributes to Syrah.

All of that appeals to me, but so does Merlot.  Think about it. Merlot has the acidity and stiff backbone found in the best Cabernet Sauvignon.  As for fruit, Merlot has plenty of it, without being overblown or jammy.  Briefly stated, Merlot has it all, the fruit of Syrah and the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Merlot attracts fans for its different expressions captured in the scores of Merlots from around the world.  This is what English wine writer, Oz Clarke, said about Cabernet's partner: "Merlot tastes of all sorts of things: it can be anything you want, from light and juicy through Pinot Noir-silky to Cabernet-oaky and extracted." 

Ok, so Clarke says "po-tot-toe" and I say "po-tay-toe."  Either way, Merlot has what it takes for a red wine to be a good match with food, whether it comes off your backyard grill, has a place on the dining room table, or is on the wine list at your favorite restaurant. 

Still, Clarke's comment sounds like Merlot is a chameleon, when he suggests that Merlot can be anything you want.   Shape shifting or not, no matter where it's from, Merlot's core identity is the same, even as it takes on characteristics of the local terroir.

If all that sounds like smoke and mirrors to you, then here's a closer look at some noteworthy and stylistically different Merlots from France, Italy, California, Washington state, Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. 

France: Merlot is rarely bottled as a varietal in France, except for the popularly-priced Merlots from the Mediterranean regions in the south of France.  Languedoc and Provence  Merlots  are soft, fruity, mildly tannic and very drinkable.

 Bordeaux vineyard                                                                                      Getty image

In Bordeaux, Merlot is famous for its role in the classic Bordeaux blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  And French Merlot gives structure to  Pomerol and St. Emilion, two Bordeaux right bank areas that rely on Cabernet Franc.  It's in Pomerol that Merlot, not Cabernet Sauvignon, helps Cabernet Franc round out the blend.

Italy: A balanced, smoother Italian red wine is made when lower-acid Merlot is blended with high-acid Sangiovese, in Tuscany,  Umbria and Veneto.  Northern Italian Merlot is leaner than its French cousin, but still offers  ripe black cherry flavors.  Merlot is growing in popularity in  the Maremma part of Tuscany, notably Bolgheri.  Despite Merlot's modest rise in Italy, Sangiovese is still king, and that assigns Merlot mainly as a blending component. 

California: Whether it's part of a blend, or as a varietal, Merlot is  popular up and down the state.  Napa's Duckhorn is credited with bringing Merlot forward as a varietal.  Merlot quickly became better known, both as a blending partner with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and as a varietal.  

Early California Merlot tended to be green and vegetative, leaning to dill.  Growers and winemakers worked on the problem and, in time, varietal Merlots began to show signature ripe berry aromas and flavors. The state's top Merlots come from Northern California, notably Napa Valley and Sonoma County.  Merlot also grows good in Amador and the coastal part of Monterey County.

Some California Merlot has been criticized as over the top and jammy. What sold a lot of people on Merlot was the recognition that Merlot is a more generous wine than Cabernet Sauvignon.  Where young Cabernet Sauvignon can be edgy and angular, with harder tannin, Merlot's softer edges and abundant fruit gives the wine a more approachable taste. 

For years, winemakers have been pleading with consumers to age their red wine, but marketing statistics consistently show that Cabernet and Merlot is drunk too soon.  Most Merlot in today's market is not meant for cellaring, exceptions are top California bottlings and Pomerol like Chateau Petrus.

Washington: If you were to pick the three red wines the Evergreen State is best known for, it would be Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  In fact, Merlot is Washington's second-most planted red variety.  Woodward Canyon Winery, in Walla Walla, was one of the first to show Merlot's potential in the state. 

Today, growers are dealing with the effects of climate change and rising temperatures.  While cooler sites are being considered, Merlot is still a good bet from parts of Walla Walla, including Seven Hills and Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills in the Yakima Valley, and Horse Heaven Hills. 

Argentina and Chile: Malbec is the Bordeaux variety that best defines Argentine red wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc are on the rise, but Merlot has yet to catch on, even in Mendoza.  

                                        

 Merlot has an identity problem in Chile.  For years, a lot of  vines have been identified as Carmenere, an ancient Bordeaux grape that somehow found its way to Chile.  Vine identification is on-going, as Chilean wineries sell both Carmenere and Merlot, while  blending both varieties with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Australia and New Zealand: Generalizing about Australian wine is complicated, because of the country's size and viticultural diversity.  But wherever you find Cabernet Sauvignon, you'll find Merlot. Favored places are in the states of South Australia, Western Australia, New South Wales and Tasmania.  

Hawke's Bay, on the east side of New Zealand's north island, is Merlot country, especially in the vineyard zone known as Gimblett Gravels.  A little Merlot is also found on the South Island regions of Canterbury and Waipara Valley.

South Africa: In a broad area known as the Cape Winelands, there are no fewer than 18  areas, the best known being Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek.  Merlot, the third most planted wine grape in South Africa, is favored in these areas.  Although  varietal Merlot is popular, the variety is most often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.

When the film "Sideways" was released twenty years ago,  Merlot was dissed by the main character, causing U.S. Merlot sales to take a beating, with some market observers predicting doom. There was a temporary dip in sales, but demand for Merlot bounced back and today, Merlot is more popular than ever.

Omission:  In the July 26 overview of Pacific Northwest wines, the Yakima Valley, Washington's first AVA, was unintentionally left out.  Yakima Valley is home to such important sub-AVAs as Red Mountain, as well as noted wineries like, Hogue Cellars,  Col Solare and Kiona Vineyards.

Next post: The Douro

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Pacific Northwest Wine: An Overview

Geography, climate and weather top the list of most influential factors when deciding where to plant a vineyard.  In the Pacific Northwest, a vast expanse that covers Washington, Oregon, Idaho and the Canadian province of British Columbia, there is a diversity of natural factors that allows for a broad range of grapes and wine. 

Wine-grape vineyards were planted in Washington in the late 19th century, around Walla Walla and the Yakima Valley.  During the same period, international varieties were introduced to Idaho and Oregon, but it wasn't until the 1960s when Pinot Noir was planted in the Willamette Valley.  During the same period, native North American grapes were replaced by vinifera, in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia.

Overall growth in planted vineyards in the PNW was gradual.  In terms of wineries, Washington led the way, until a few years ago, when Oregon, moved into first place with 1,116 wineries, compared to 1,050 for Washington.  British Columbia has a total of 338 wineries, most of them in the Okanagan Valley.  And, there are 65 wineries in Idaho.

Chateau Ste Michelle

Washington

Washington is known best for its red wine, although the start of the wine industry was in another direction.  In the late 19th century, European immigrants began  planting wine-grape vineyards around Walla Walla. In time, there was a mix of vinifera, hybrids and labrusca varieties like Concord.  Washington also went through a period of sweet dessert wine. 

Today, more than 80 varieties are grown, mainly in the Columbia Valley, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for 28% of the total.

The foundation of American wine making was historically based on a French model. But, when planning wine estates, French vintners did not consider geography, since vineyards were planted next to or close to the winery.  

That model didn't work in Washington, because  the state's vineyards are mostly in the warmer eastern Columbia Valley, while many of the wineries are across the Cascade Mountains, in western Washington.  Economics and open land are the main reasons for the separation.

In Bordeaux, vintners found the best place to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, then built a chateau-winery, next to the vineyard. Transportation for moving the wine to distant markets was convenient to the wine region.  In Washington, the major transportation hub is in Seattle, across the mountains and many miles from the Columbia Valley.

Washington wineries are grouped northeast of Seattle, in Woodinville, home of Ch. Ste. Michelle, the state's best known winery.  Walla Walla, a growing area in the southeast part of the state, includes the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, located across the state line in Oregon.  Washington is the second largest wine producing state, after California.

Oregon

For years, Oregon winemakers felt the pressure of being squeezed by California, its dominant neighbor to the south and the rapidly growing presence of Washington, Oregon's northern neighbor.  And to make matters more difficult, Oregon wine was being portrayed as a "one trick pony."

Pressure aside, there was a solution on the horizon.  In 1965, Oregon wine pioneer, David Lett, led an exodus from California to Oregon's Willamette Valley, where they found the area ripe for Pinot Noir.  Lett helped build a nationwide reputation for Oregon Pinot Noir, and for that he became known as "Papa Pinot."   

Oregon Pinot became so admired that provincial Burgundian winemaker, Robert Drouhin, found Willamette to be the singular place to establish his name, outside Burgundy. 

Oregon white wine was more difficult to pin down.  Chardonnay, Pinot Noir's white partner, had middling success at first in the Willamette, as some winemakers  believed the terroir there better suited to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.  As it turns out, the three whites worked out and are today the valley's leading white wines, with Riesling not far behind.

Southern Oregon is home to two major wine areas: Umpqua Valley AVA and Rogue Valley AVA.  Warmer conditions in the Rogue River Valley are better suited to Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Umpqua Valley, between the cooler Willamette and warmer Rogue Valley, is a good place for a wide range of wines, including those from Bordeaux varieties and popular Spanish grapes Albarino and Tempranillo. 

The Okanagan Valley

British  Columbia

There are multiple  wine areas in BC, all of them small, except for the Okanagan Valley, about 250 miles east of Vancouver.  Grapes were first planted in the Okanagan in the mid-18th century by a French priest, for sacramental wines.  In 1927, Vitis labrusca was tried, then 30 years later, it was hybrids. Finally, in the late 1970s, vinifera varieties overcame winter-kill problems, becoming the backbone of BC wine.  

More than 100 wineries line the shores of Lake Okanagan or are a short distance from the water.  The lake's tempering influence allows for Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Idaho

The Snake River Valley, in southwestern Idaho is considered a high desert, yet it is home to more than 50 wineries that specialize in Bordeaux and Rhone varieties.  An unusual feature of Idaho's viticulture is a small western part of the Snake River AVA juts into Oregon.  Some of Idaho's wineries are located in the northern part of the state, just across the state line with Washington.  Ste. Chapelle is Idaho's largest winery and Fraser Winery the oldest. 

One way to off set the dominance of a neighbor, is to establish a recognizable niche in the market.  Pacific Northwest wines have established local identity and are moving ahead. 

 

Update:  Last week's post on Sicilian White Wine got the attention of Jeff Hinchliffe, winemaker for Hanna Winery, in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley.  Hanna has planted California's first plot of Grillo, the Sicilian white grape, and Hinchcliffe plans Hanna's first Grillo in 2025.  Hanna will also add the red Nero d'Avola.     

Next post: The Douro

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White Wines of Sicily

When someone mentions "Sicilian wine," do you think red or white?  Or maybe fortified, like  iconic Marsala, the "Sticky from Sicily."  

For most people, the sensory image of Sicily is a romantic bucolic setting, with rustic food and jugs of local wine.  Sicily is a major island in the Mediterranean, floating off the southern tip of the Italian peninsula, not far from Tunisia, North Africa.  

Geography has a way of influencing life, like the cultural mashup that's common throughout Sicily, but especially in cities like Palermo, Catania  and Messina, where you can hear Arabic and Italian spoken in street markets.

                                            Michael Corleone in Sicily                                               

It's not practical for some people to travel to Sicily, so they turn to pop culture as a way to experience life in another country.  In 1974,  fictional life in one rural Sicilian village became part of American pop culture, when a young Michael Corleone danced with his new bride, in "Godfather II," whirling past tables laden with platters of food and jugs of wine.

Popularity of Sicilian white wine was still decades in the future, so the wine at the wedding reception was likely red, although probably not Sicily's popular red wine, Nero d'Avola. 

Today, in traditional rural areas of Sicily, a glass of wine may  be vino bianco, from Grillo, Catarratto, Carricante and Inzolia.  In fact, Sicily produces more white wine than red, with Cataratto the most planted wine grape.  Not only that, but the four major white grapes are very adaptable, appearing together, or in various pairs, in most of Sicily's white wines.

Sicilian wine culture is spread across the island, with a lot of it in the shadow of Mt. Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe.   Throughout the millennia, eruptions of Etna have enriched vineyard soils with deposits of volcanic ash, no where more than in Catania.  On the slopes of Etna, Sicily's two exciting reds -- Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, thrive.  (See "Nero and Nerello," April 11, 2024) 

Sicilia DOC is an island-wide appellation, encompassing more than 20 DOCs.  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red blend from the south coast is Sicily's only DOCG wine.  A handful of DOCs have applied for DOCG, but so far none have succeeded 

Among the hopefuls is Etna DOC, one of Italy's earliest DOC wines, approved in 1968.  Etna Bianco, a dry, mineral-laced blend of Carricante, Cataratto and small amounts of Trebbiano and/or Minella Bianca.  The rule for Carricante is 60% to 100%, but how much is up to the winemaker.  The aim, with Carricante, is to extract attractive flavors that suggest ripe pears and apples, with hints of citrus.   

Grillo is an indigenous white grape that has shown promise in Sicily, but is no longer allowed in non-DOC wines.  Grillo is thought to either be native to Sicily or from Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot.  Once used as a base for Marsala, Grillo is high in sugars but it lost out to Cataratto because of its low-level aromatic intensity.   A dry Grillo is light, lemon-scented and nutty with plenty of up-front stone fruit. Fruitier versions remind me of Viognier and Albarino.

Cataratto

Cataratto is the most planted grape, white or red, in Sicily, but comes second to Trebbiano throughout Italy.  The wide availability makes Cataratto a popular component in blends, like Etna Bianco and Marsala, or with Inzolia.   Planted almost exclusively in western Trapani, Cataratto has been shown through DNA testing to be related to Garganega, the main grape in Soave.

Inzolia can be found in western Sicily and Tuscany, where the grape is called Ansonica.  Inzolia (also spelled "Insolia") is valued for its aromatic qualities and is usually paired with Grillo in Marsala, bottled as a varietal or blended with Cataratto.

Sicilian wine, except maybe for Nero d'Avola, may be scarce in your local market, but these wines have good distribution: Donnafugata, Planeta, Idda, Passopisciaro, Tenuta delle Terre Nere,  Tenuta Regaleali.

End Note:  At one time or another, all of these Sicilian white grapes have been used in Marsala, the iconic fortified Sicilian wine.  Traditionally made from Grillo and Inzolia, Marsala now includes high percentages of Cataratto. Modern Marsala comes in three styles: sweet Fine, medium Superiore and drier Vergine.  (A more detailed look at Marsala, Madeira and Malaga, the trio of Mediterranean classic dessert wines, is coming August 23.)

 

Next post: Pacific Northwest Wine: An Overview

 Contact me at boydvino707@gmail.com

French or American Oak? Part 2

                                      

"French or American Oak?" (June 20) drew a number of responses, from winemakers and wine consumers. The replies indicated a desire by winemakers to clarify the issue, while also showing that consumers want to know more about the relationship between wine and oak.

Kimberlee Nicholls, winemaker for Markham Vineyard, in the Napa Valley, reminded me of an important difference between French and American oaks, that I didn't mention.  Paul Vandenberg, winemaker and winery owner for Paradisos del Sol Winery, in Washington's Yakima Valley, made a pitch for older barrels in lieu of trendy concrete eggs.  And Marvin Mai, an avid wine consumer from Santa Rosa, California, wants to know about sustainable forestry and if oak chips, used in a concrete egg, have the same impact on wine as does wine aging in an oak barrel. 

Knowing more about the wine you drink can help in making wine buys.  So, here's a follow-up to the June post on French or American oak, with more information...  

On sustainability: The entire process, from the forest to the cellar, has been a personal interest, since I sipped my first wine.  Thus, I believe one way to answer Marvin Mai's question about sustainability, is to first think of how long it takes for an oak tree to grow.  In France, as trees transition for decades through the growth process, the government monitors  the cycle from planting a new sapling to harvesting a mature tree.  In the United States, a sustainable forest growth plan, follows a similar plan, insuring there will always be trees to harvest.  

On the benefits to wine of oak contact: Kimberlee Nicholls explains that oak aging allows the introduction of oxygen into wine, softening tannin and mouthfeel.  "When not using barrels, the introduction of oak is possible through the use of oak chips or oak stave inserts in tanks, to create a softening of the flavor profile," she explains. 

Paul Vandenberg  believes there is a more practical benefit.  "Barrels replaced ceramics as storage and transportation vessels because they are much lighter and more durable when moved. Until recently, new barrels were not used for the highest quality wines. When  American winemakers realized that barrel fermentation and aging were key to white Burgundy (Chardonnay), we started importing barrels."

On the use of concrete eggs:  Vandenberg had this to say: "The use of 'eggs' is stupid and an expensive return to the technology of a time before the use of barrels, and is a response to immature barrels." Then, he adds this about wine held in concrete eggs, "My limited tasting experience suggests to me that stupid, expensive, heavy, space hog ceramic vessels offer no advantage, except, of course, the 'cool' factor, which is strictly PR."

Nicholls does not use concrete eggs at Markham, but she has a couple of concrete tanks, that she uses "only for white wine to enhance the wine's minerality."

There is, however, an "armored" egg in use at Rodney Strong Vineyards.  On "Wine Industry Network," Justin Seidenfeld, reports the fermentation egg in the Rodney Strong cellar is half stainless steel and half French oak, which he says "creates natural mixing and cooling, for a "fuller, richer wine." 

On the advantage of older barrels and barrel neutrality:  Vandenberg prefers barrels that are more than 10 years old, preferably 20-plus.  "A barrel is not neutral until it is well past 10 years old."  In a lighter vein, he reflects, "for a barrel at least 30 years old, the difference between French oak and American oak is weight of the barrel.  As I get older, I prefer Quercus Europe because they are lighter."  He is in agreement with California winemaker Clark Smith, who addresses the subject of using older barrels in his book, "Post Modern Winemaking." 

On the milling of oak for wine barrels: Nicholls points out that the big difference between French and American oak is the way the barrels are milled. "Due to its cell structure, French oak must be cut with the grain, while American oak is typically quarter sawed.  This means less waste on the (American oak) log itself, which probably speaks to the cost difference between the two oaks." 

On the use of oak alternatives:  "I'm not a fan of oak chips," says Nicholls,"because  they have so much oxygen that you need to counteract with more SO2."  Vandenberg, also not a fan of oak adjuncts, as he calls them, says, "They are primarily about aromatic extract; I gave them up years ago."    

Oak is, by far, the worldwide wood of choice for use with wine.  It wasn't always that way. In the 7th century BCE, merchants in Armenia shipped wine in palm wood barrels.  It would be thousands of years before the arrival of oak.  In the intervening years, winemakers  used locally grown woods, including  ash, redwood, acacia, chestnut, cypress, evergreen beech, and pine.  Oak ultimately became the favorite, for its relative ease in forming barrels and, most importantly, the seasoning from oak, is far superior to that of other woods.

The relationship that exists between the contribution of oak to fermenting and maturing wine is complex and extensive. Thus, a detailed coverage of the subject, in two short articles, is impossible.  Hopefully, the information and opinions above and in the June 20, 2024 posting, will help readers of this blog toward a greater enjoyment of wine.

Next posting: Sicilian White Wine

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Finger Lakes

            

Geography influences nearly every wine-buying decision we make. This is especially true for wine shoppers on the West Coast who are hampered by geography when they try to buy wine from the Finger Lakes region of New York state.

Easterners don't have the same problem.  California wine is readily available in most markets in the east and mid-west.  Less so, perhaps, for Pacific Northwest wines.

So, perhaps some information on the Finger Lakes and what wines to look for might generate interest in this historic New York wine region, among Left Coast wine drinkers. 

Thousands of years ago, glaciers formed a series of 11 lakes in central New York state that  became known as the Finger Lakes for their long narrow shapes.  The most prominent are Seneca Lake, Cayuga Lake and Keuka Lake.  In 1982, the Finger Lakes wine region was given an AVA, followed by sub-AVAs for Cayuga Lake and Seneca Lake.

According to the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (FLWA) there are 130 wineries along the Finger Lakes, making a variety of wines from native, hybrid and European vinifera grapes. Riesling, the second most widely planted grape in the lake region, is presently made by 200 Finger Lakes wineries.                

Today, Riesling and other vinifera grapes, are more common in Finger Lakes vineyards.  The FLWA says these are the top-10 grapes in Finger Lakes vineyards: Concord, Riesling, Catawba, Niagara, Aurore, Elvira, Chardonnay, Cayuga White, Cabernet Franc and Baco Noir. (Vinifera grapes are in bold)

At one time, the town of Hammondsport, on Keuka Lake, was considered the wine capitol of the region, partly because it was the site of historic Taylor Winery and Pleasant Valley Wine Company.

Both companies became known for their sparkling wines (then called "champagne"), made from native grapes.  So close was the association with the Champagne region of France, that the rail stop, near the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, was named Rheims, after the famous city in Champagne.               

According to Leon Adams, in his book, "The Wines of America," in the late 19th century, the proprietors of the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, presented a sparkling wine, made from Delaware and Catawba grapes, at a meeting of the local growers association, prompting one attendee to proclaim, "Truly, this will be the great champagne of the West!"  Although the remark was meant to refer to the continent "west" of Europe, it gave Great Western sparkling wine its name, and eventually the New York bubbly went on to win awards in Paris and London.

It must have been a shocking experience for those European tasters.  Eastern grapes, especially Vitis labrusca, but also some hybrids, have what is pejoratively described as a "foxy" character.  Baco Noir and other red hybrids can smell and taste "foxy," while the Seyvals usually are free of that character. 

A foxy smell is organic and wild, like animal fur. Curiously, some compare the foxy scent to that of wild strawberry, or fraise des bois, an aroma most people find pleasant.

Wine drinkers, familiar with the smell and taste of vinifera wines, find wine made from Vitis labrusca and Vitis riparia grapes alien, even off-putting.  It's a major reason eastern wines are scarce and a hard sell in the west.  And it took years for growers in the Finger Lakes, and other states east of the Mississippi, to learn how to bring vinifera grapes through the harder New York winters

An aside.  On my first wine trip to the Finger Lakes, my photographer and I visited a few wineries that were pouring mostly hybrid wines, including Baco Noir and Seyval Blanc.  Coming from California, I was used to drinking vinifera wine, like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc so, the eastern wines were, at the very least, unusual.  

But something we noticed, in the tasting rooms we visited, was even more unusual. At Great Western, the tasting room staff had Concord grape juice for the visiting children. While the adults were offered samples of hybrid wines and Riesling, the staff understood that to keep dad and mom concentrating on the wines, they had to distract their child from demanding the parent's attention.

We saw this sensible and impressive marketing idea at other Finger Lakes wineries, and I wondered why this simple tool was not being used in California.

Besides Riesling, Finger Lakes vineyards have other vinifera grapes, like Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc.  And interest in hybrid grapes continues, the most common being American Hybrids (Isabella, Noah) and French Hybrids (Seyvel Blanc, Villard Noir). Hybrids had a growth spurt in the 1990s and continue to be popular with many wine drinkers, where the wines are sold.  And, there still is a demand for native wines like Cayuga White,  Catawba, Niagara and Concord, noted for their "foxy" character.  

Search your local wine shops for hybrid and native wines from the Finger Lakes, or ask your wine merchant to order them.  

 

Correction: In the June 28 post on Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, I had a lapse of memory.  I've been to Western Australia and should have remembered that Perth, the capital city of WA, is closer to Margaret River than Adelaide, days away to the east, across the Nullarbor Plain.  My thanks to Robin Shaw for pointing out the error and my apologies to the residents of Western Australia for my faulty geography.

Next post: French or American Oak Part 2

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